26X Electrical. And Raymarine Upgrades

[jimmy alonso]

So... an friend sold his 26X and I met the new owner he asked me what Chart plotter and autopilot to get and I advised to go with a Raymarine Wheel Pilot and Chart Plotter. After a few calls and messages later I asked if he needed some help with the installation.
Well when I went and to see how was the electrical looked.

Stuff like this was all over. House wires, scotch tape on wires twisted together, black electrical tape that was all slimy.
So I ended up ripping everything out except the original lamp wires.
Made a long list for him on Defender to start the refit.
Started with a piece of wood to put a BlueSea Fuseblock, ground Bus Bar and a Yandina Combiner I was no longer using. This will be installed where the battery goes.

Almost done still a little to do here. Added a Blue Sea 60 amp circuit breaker for the inverter (500 watts)

Next: Inverter, Solar Charger Controller and Battery Charger.

[jimmy alonso]

This was installed on a piece of wood that a previous owner fiberglassed to the hull in the galley.
Victron 25 amp battery charger, 500 watt inverter and a 15 amp solar charge controller. A Victron Smart Shunt monitors battery SOC and start battery voltage.

The 6 volt Trojan batteries were shot. so this AGM Carbon Foam 250 AH 12volt was installed on a new piece of wood and help firmly in place with new straps.

On battery pole is 2 Blue Sea MRBF fuses,100 amp and a 30 amp. also a Blue Sea ST fuse block.

[Jimmyt]

You get the award for friend of the year! Wow, that looks better! Nice job!

[NiceAft]

Yep, friend of the year award. Now friend, come to Philly, I have a list.

[jimmy alonso]

Old Switch panel wasn't looking up to par. Rivets, ugly galvanized bolts and broken fiberglass.

Blue Sea (again) 360 Panel.

Made a acrylic frame to cover all the holes from old panels and epoxied pieces of wood on the inside to support the heavier panel.
Behind the panel put in a Blue Sea Terminal Block (left) and a bus bar (right) for negatives on a wood piece epoxied on hull.

Back side of Switch Panel with a inline fuse for SeaTalk network. Wires were all labeled.

[jimmy alonso]

Raymarine Autopilot EVO and Controller. In process...

In the pedestal a small terminal block and a Seatalk 5 way connector and the Fuse for Chart Plotter.

Wheel Pilot

Used more than 150 feet of ancor boat wire 10, 8 and 12 AWG with ancor heat ring terminals. Two 12 volt fans were installed, new water pump, light in the head.

Diagram

[Gotro]

Looks awesome. On the same page here on my 26x . Thanks for posting the wire diagram. Just wish I was retired and could work full time to get mine wired back together. Oh well picked winter time to ripe out every thing so I can possibly not miss to much of spring weather sailing. I just downloaded new wire marine wire diagram to follow. I will compare this to what you posted

[Be Free]

That is an excellent design and an outstanding install. Good work!

It is very similar to my own setup (yours is better executed) except that I chose to keep the start circuit isolated without a switch. I've blown diodes with a careless turn of a switch and I've killed my start battery by forgetting that it was paralleled to my house bank. I feel better knowing I'm not going to break anything and that even if I kill the house batteries the outboard will start and will charge them through the ACR. Obviously, both were my own fault but since I hold the title of "Chief Idiot" I have to do all I can to "idiot proof" my designs.

I assume he has those three 100W panels mounted on an arch. Would you be willing to elaborate on that part of the system? I'm still in the design phase and I've only gotten as far as realizing that those 100W Renology panels are a steal and would do great in series on an arch to minimize shading.

[jimmy alonso]

Yes right Bill instead of the combiner an Victron Agrofet battery isolator would have been a better choice. Since the house and start can be charged with engine and the charge profiles are close enough. Combiners and ACR's will tend to cycle on/off when house is low and too many amps will try to go from the start battery to the house battery.
I prefer also not to have a battery combiner switch (1-2- both) switch just a on/off is better. IMHO. The switch was already installed. I mentioned not to use both or house just OFF and Start. The start battery should always be fully charged to 100% by the Yandina combiner/solar.

The solar arch is not done yet as we launched for a sea trial and he ended up leaving in water for 2 months. There was a old 100 watt panel that came with the boat he left in the cockpit to keep batteries topped off. The reason there are two charge controllers is first one was sized for the 100 watt panel. The inverter came after and a number off AC appliances so upgraded before finished to a 300 watts of solar and another charge controller.

He prefers to sail with bimini down(we'll see in the summer) so I'm planning to have the arch as far back as possible. I noticed the mast in the down position is a lot higher than on my 26M so will try to have the arch in always on. TBD

[OverEasy]

Hi Jimmy Alonso!

Really gotta complement you on your very nice work!
You have done a lot!
Your friend has a real friend in you that is for sure.

In retirement I’ve reverted back to pencil and paper diagrams…I Miss my old engineering workstation with the CAD and wire routing software…ahhh the ‘good ole days’….Not!
The worst day in a boat beats the ole office, projects and artificial executive management

There is a lot of good in what you have been able to accomplish!
Bravo!

Best Regards
Over Easy

[OverEasy]

Hi Jimmy Alonso

Maybe you could make an entry in the “Mods” section of the MacGregor Sailors site?

I’d be willing to bet there would others interested in the work you have so aptly accomplished.

Best Regards
Over Easy