(Apologies that I haven't been on in quite a while, or sailing for that matter. Lost our son last summer and that has really thrown us.)
Installed the BWY motor steering quick disconnect on our thanks to the many strong recommendations here. Really love the difference that it makes in handling under sail. Almost feels like a real sailboat. ;-)
What I have found, however, is that I have poor motor steering authority to starboard when it is connected. Is there an easy way to adjust this? I'm looking at shortening the ss rod and cutting new threads in it to get equal steering to port and starboard.
Yes, Spain is still part of our plan. Still a few years off. Haven't allowed ourselves to think about it much lately. Everything with our son happened the week after that post, while we were in Germany.
I do not have a quick disconnect so not much help there. Still have the '98X OEM rudders and aluminum brackets. No problems or advice to give regarding steering. But my condolences on the loss of your son. We lost our 54 y/o son to colon cancer last summer. Feel free to share on PM if you like. Hope you find sailing provides some solace. The dancing ripple of the wake in moderate winds seems to speak to me of something eternal. Something peaceful and purposeful at the same time. I wish you "fair winds and following winds" while the soul heals.
I used a piece of all thread and cut it to length. The PO had it and the kit in a box. I just installed it. I also moved the tiller attach point on the motor in towards the motor a notch. MY Honda 50 had two holes. Gave me full swing steering in both directions. A beef that a lot of folks here have. Just move it in and increase the swing. Worked great for me.
I have the same exact boat. 26M Etec 50 and had exactly the same issue. I could turn rudders full lock to port but could not turn rudders full lock to starboard. The disconnect end would contact the motor well wall before reaching full over lock position of the rudders when turning to starboard.
I could not solve the issue by adjusting the quick disconnect rod length. My only solution was to have BWY make me an extended length steering J tube without the connect ball welded to the end of the tube. I had the J tube cut 4in longer on the end that passes thru the motor well wall. With the new J tub installed I turned the rudders to port and marked the tube where it extends thru the motor well wall. Then turned the rudders lock to starboard and marked the tube again. This is the full extended position turning to port and retracted position turning to starboard. Then I centered the rudders and hand centered the motor to dead ahead. I marked the distance from the motor connect point and again marked the tube at the exit location of the motor well wall. This is your center dead ahead point. The total distance between points is your total steering J tube travel lock to lock port to starboard external of the wall. Anything limiting this full travel distance prevents turning the rudders/motor lock to lock.
I don't have the exact measurements but I cut the tube approx 1in +/- beyond the starboard retraction point then drilled and bolted the ball to the tube making sure the disconnect did not contact the wall when turning to starboard. With the motor and rudders set dead ahead I measured the distance from the connect ball to the motor connect point then cut the steering bar to the proper length. I was lucky in that I had just enough thread to reassemble the disconnect bar after I cut it short. In retrospect I would prototype the refit with some steel allthread. I didn't have a tap and die set for stainless. If needed I would just purchase some stainless allthread from McMaster-Carr or equivalent if you cannot extend the treaded area of the original bart.
All things considered I can turn in to my slip with no issues and have full rudder control lock to lock. Hope this helps!
1st Sail wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 7:29 am
I have the same exact boat. 26M Etec 50 and had exactly the same issue. I could turn rudders full lock to port but could not turn rudders full lock to starboard. The disconnect end would contact the motor well wall before reaching full over lock position of the rudders when turning to starboard.
I could not solve the issue by adjusting the quick disconnect rod length. My only solution was to have BWY make me an extended length steering J tube without the connect ball welded to the end of the tube. I had the J tube cut 4in longer on the end that passes thru the motor well wall. With the new J tub installed I turned the rudders to port and marked the tube where it extends thru the motor well wall. Then turned the rudders lock to starboard and marked the tube again. This is the full extended position turning to port and retracted position turning to starboard. Then I centered the rudders and hand centered the motor to dead ahead. I marked the distance from the motor connect point and again marked the tube at the exit location of the motor well wall. This is your center dead ahead point. The total distance between points is your total steering J tube travel lock to lock port to starboard external of the wall. Anything limiting this full travel distance prevents turning the rudders/motor lock to lock.
I don't have the exact measurements but I cut the tube approx 1in +/- beyond the starboard retraction point then drilled and bolted the ball to the tube making sure the disconnect did not contact the wall when turning to starboard. With the motor and rudders set dead ahead I measured the distance from the connect ball to the motor connect point then cut the steering bar to the proper length. I was lucky in that I had just enough thread to reassemble the disconnect bar after I cut it short. In retrospect I would prototype the refit with some steel allthread. I didn't have a tap and die set for stainless. If needed I would just purchase some stainless allthread from McMaster-Carr or equivalent if you cannot extend the treaded area of the original bart.
All things considered I can turn in to my slip with no issues and have full rudder control lock to lock. Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for that wonderful and extremely detailed reply. That seems like just what I need to do.
Please don't go through too much trouble, but a photo of your setup the next time you are on your boat would really help me understand the final configuration.
It's super fortunate that we have the same boat and motor.
Todd from BWY responded to my inquiry right away, but not in the week since. It's a great kit and a wonderful upgrade but it seems that one has to do quite a bit of customization to get it just right. Definitely worth the effort if one wants to be able to pilot the boat under power.
1st Sail wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 7:29 am
I have the same exact boat. 26M Etec 50 and had exactly the same issue. I could turn rudders full lock to port but could not turn rudders full lock to starboard. The disconnect end would contact the motor well wall before reaching full over lock position of the rudders when turning to starboard.
I could not solve the issue by adjusting the quick disconnect rod length. My only solution was to have BWY make me an extended length steering J tube without the connect ball welded to the end of the tube. I had the J tube cut 4in longer on the end that passes thru the motor well wall. With the new J tub installed I turned the rudders to port and marked the tube where it extends thru the motor well wall. Then turned the rudders lock to starboard and marked the tube again. This is the full extended position turning to port and retracted position turning to starboard. Then I centered the rudders and hand centered the motor to dead ahead. I marked the distance from the motor connect point and again marked the tube at the exit location of the motor well wall. This is your center dead ahead point. The total distance between points is your total steering J tube travel lock to lock port to starboard external of the wall. Anything limiting this full travel distance prevents turning the rudders/motor lock to lock.
I don't have the exact measurements but I cut the tube approx 1in +/- beyond the starboard retraction point then drilled and bolted the ball to the tube making sure the disconnect did not contact the wall when turning to starboard. With the motor and rudders set dead ahead I measured the distance from the connect ball to the motor connect point then cut the steering bar to the proper length. I was lucky in that I had just enough thread to reassemble the disconnect bar after I cut it short. In retrospect I would prototype the refit with some steel allthread. I didn't have a tap and die set for stainless. If needed I would just purchase some stainless allthread from McMaster-Carr or equivalent if you cannot extend the treaded area of the original bart.
All things considered I can turn in to my slip with no issues and have full rudder control lock to lock. Hope this helps!
Hello 1st Sail
Your solution Looks so great.
My problem: my English is too poor to understand what I had to do.
I have an X so not the same setup, however, when I was reading your question.
I was initially thinking you were leaving the motor locked in position while motoring trusting the rudders to turn, prop wash causing some turning issues.
I have been playing with doing that myself, works fine as long as you get steerage speed before you expect the rudders to work.
With much power on past hull speed, the prop walk does cause a turning force.
Wondering what others are doing and finding using the disconnect.
NOTE: I have a channel I need to negotiate before I put the sails up, so spend time motoring and sailing each time I go out.
26X in Dallas Fort-Worth area Texas
Slip at Eagle Mountain Lake
thanks to the many strong recommendations here. Really love the difference that it makes in handling under sail. Almost feels like a real sailboat. ;-)
