26M Daggerboard

[LordElsinore]

Mine isn't a factory trailer. The original owner didn't have one, the second owner bought a 'fancy' aluminum one to take it from original owner to their house, then never used the boat. Good to know that official trailer had a solution to prevent this. I intend to copy it in one way or another

[The Islander]

Hey Guys,

An update on the 26M daggerboard.

I stated it appeared my daggerboard had a metal liner resembling brass around the bottom outside edges. Ray said he had never seen that on other M's. I scraped and found that this very thin retaining band is part of the fiberglass construction. It appears to be about 1/16 inch thick and is on the outside of the board covered by gelcoat. Its appearance of being brass colored was actually old light brown barnacle staining.

I am seriously considering making an angled cut on the bottom to assist in potential lifting of the daggerboard when either running aground or impact with an object. A few questions.

1. When operating under light wind and or full engine power, what is suggested depth to place the daggerboard below the hull to reduce "drift" or "skating" to a minimum?

2. Has anyone ever seen a daggerboard with an angled cut along the bottom to assist in lifting? If so, what boat was it on?

Someone has had to have made one in production mode. I am trying to calculate the angle and shape of the cut.

Thanks, Ed

[Jimmyt]

Don’t cut your dagger board at an angle. It won’t push up. The board is wedged tight in the slot when there is a load on it.

You can put a foot or two down UP TO HULL SPEED. ABOVE HULL SPEED YOU NEED TO HAVE THE BOARD FULLY RAISED.

From the Manual…

[The Islander]

A few questions,

1. If the board does not lift up with an angled cut at the bottom, what would be the possible detriments to the board?

2. If the board has already experienced fatigue in this area of impact, would it not be better to reduce this area of impact?

3. If a cupped design along the leading edge of the angled portion of board was in place, would it not also increase lift for additional planing atributes of the hull below the waterline? Minimal lift at sailing speeds but more at full throttle engine speed.

[Russ]

A few questions,

1. If the board does not lift up with an angled cut at the bottom, what would be the possible detriments to the board?

Do not cut the board. It is HOLLOW. Drain holes on the side allow water in/out when lowering/raising. Just not worth messing with it.

2. If the board has already experienced fatigue in this area of impact, would it not be better to reduce this area of impact?

It's a proven design. I would not alter it. Some owners have filled it with lead. That causes issues because it's hollow and bulged outward. No worthwhile performance was gained.

3. If a cupped design along the leading edge of the angled portion of board was in place, would it not also increase lift for additional planing atributes of the hull below the waterline? Minimal lift at sailing speeds but more at full throttle engine speed.

Planing...board should be up. ALL FINS UP. Maybe an inch of board would be okay but I see no need.

[Sea Shadow]

Sadly I'll be buying one of those replacement daggerboards from BWY in the very near future. My daggerboard somehow dropped down while being towed along a bumpy road despite being both locked off and cleated off and got ground down to a very sad looking stub of a thing

But I'm at least glad there is still a place to get one

My original M trailer has a wire strung across to "catch" the dagger board should it drop during trailering.