New axel and hubs for M trailer

[Ixneigh]

Axel and hubs are getting Suspect on my trailer. Is there a direct replacement for that part?
I did find an axle with a vee in the middle for my particular boat but I’d like to look at direct replacements also, to compare costs.
The vee axle I’m looking at is 700 on eBay. Galvanized, 3500 lbs rating.
Thanks,
Ix

[dustoff]

My stock 2011 26M trailer is in the same situation as yours.
Last year I did some repairs and assessments of the trailer and explored one option for adding a second torsion axle.

with the boat in the water I pulled the wheel, hub, and spindle assemblies and used an air hammer, wire brushes, sanding and solvent to knock off all the rust and smooth out the pitting. I pulled the surge brake calipers off as they were in rough shape and want to transition to electric brakes.
Also replaced the lumber on the stabilizing struts and covered them in new carpet. Took about two days and cost about $100 for galvanized steel paint and heavy duty carpet.

Went to a trailer parts and repair store near my home, and got some advice about DIY mods.
Existing torsion axle, while getting old, after I knocked all the corrsion off, was still completely servicable.
Adding a second, similar torsion axle with hub and wheels and moving both to the existing COG location of one axle, is pretty easy. about $1200
Another $150-300 for tandem axle fender depending on how fancy.
about $500 for new calipers, pads, lines, and electric master cylinder.

So for about $2k you can essentially rebuild/recondition the macgregor stock trailer with torsion axle

[Russ]

If it's the aluminum trailer with the torsion bar axle, it's easy to replace. As mentioned above, I added a second axle by ordering an identical one and moving it forward and adding the second.

If you get the part number they can make one exactly like it.

[Ixneigh]

I can’t see the inside part of the torsion arm mechanism. That’s what freaks me out. The outside parts are somewhat rusty but present. It all gets coated in oil, and rinsed with fresh water. The axel beam *looks* ok but again, inside? After breaking off that draw bar, I’m overly cautious.
Re duel axle; I’m not trailering the boat very far, nor will I, at this point, probably ever. If I take the boat any distance, it will be on her own bottom out of the country. Or maybe I’ll pay to ship her by truck to CA. I noticed the tire bead is rusted off on the OEM rims. I’ll replace those no matter what. I’ve got a trailer place coming to take a look. I might get the vee axle anyway just because it allows the boat to sit about stock boat hight on the trailer (recall the stub keel I added)

Ix

[Russ]

When I went to add an axle (I know you aren't) it was easy with the specs.

Highlander gave me this info that made it simple.
viewtopic.php?t=21751


Axle ser# A427504

braking axle
hub face to hub face 87"

frame brkt width 70"

brkt height "flush"

axle capacity 4200#

V-Bend Beam Galvanized

hub bolt pattern 5x 4.1/2

Disc brakes

fill out these specs on the torsion axle order form @ waymeyers IN.

I ordered it from Sixrobblees
https://sixrobblees.com/

It's been 12 years, I seem to recall it cost about $1,000 for the entire axle assembly (no brakes).

This would be the easiest way to replace it. It's just bolted on. Easy to do yourself.

[Ixneigh]

Hi Russ.
A quick perusal of that site was made, and it seems like they don’t stock the galvanized axles. I didn’t see any boat or marine offerings. I looked under “light trailers”

Do those specs from Highlander apply even if I don’t intend to add the brakes?

Thanks
Ix

[Russ]

Hi Russ.
A quick perusal of that site was made, and it seems like they don’t stock the galvanized axles. I didn’t see any boat or marine offerings. I looked under “light trailers”

Do those specs from Highlander apply even if I don’t intend to add the brakes?

Thanks
Ix

Yes, those are the specs (serial #) that I provided and they built me an axle WITHOUT Brakes.

I called Sixrobblees and gave them the serial number that they could use to duplicate it. Now I'm not sure if the company that makes them is sill around. That might be an issue.

[Ixneigh]

I’ll check this outfit on eBay, lots of axles and parts listed.
Now, the tire rims. Galvanized steel or aluminum? The painted OEM rims rusted even though I am sure to wash the trailer every time after use with a freshwater rinse. A not just a sprinkle, either.

[Russ]

I'm seeing a bit of rust on my rims. Never seen salt water. Not bad, mostly surface.

Aluminum? Those are pricey, no?

Just be careful of eBay. Lots of scams out there. Also, have you tried super sport marine. He's very knowledgable about the Mac and trailer. And they ship all over the USA.

https://supersail.com/aluminum-replacem ... macgregor/

[dustoff]

My steel rims rusted through after 13 years to the point that they wouldn't hold air in the tires. Aluminum would probably last longer, but 13 years isn't bad.

[LauraD]

Has anyone talked to Super Sail lately? I’m looking for a new trailer for my 26M, and I’ve called, emailed, called for two weeks now. Anyone?

[Be Free]

My steel rims rusted through after 13 years to the point that they wouldn't hold air in the tires. Aluminum would probably last longer, but 13 years isn't bad.

I would not feel bad about steel rims rusting out in 13 years if they had been in salt water regularly. They are not that expensive and I consider them to be a "wear item". I've known folks who put fancy aluminum wheels on the trailer that matched the ones on the tow vehicle. As long as they hold onto the hub on one side and keep air in the tire on the other side I don't care what they look like and I'll use those boat bucks for a new solar panel instead.

[Ixneigh]

I had new galvanized ones put on last year. The steels lasted 12 years and were still holding air. The new ones were not super expensive and should last longer. The axel I was concerned with was inspected by the trailer shop and they said it did not need replacing.

Ix