leaks
- rookie
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:48 am
- Location: knoxville,tn 2005 M "It's About Time"
leaks
I have a 2005 26M which we purchased new last summer.We have had a blast and have fallen in love with our "It's About Time".
Meanwhile, after the usual agonizing on barrier coats and bottom paint we decided to have a local marina do this service. Now we have it back and it appears they have done a nice job but noticed that there is now a leak or leaks every time it rains. Is there anything involved in transferrring a boat from a trailer or such that could have caused these leaks--we had none all last summer despite some wicked thunderstorms...also any suggestions as to how to find the source(s)?
Meanwhile, after the usual agonizing on barrier coats and bottom paint we decided to have a local marina do this service. Now we have it back and it appears they have done a nice job but noticed that there is now a leak or leaks every time it rains. Is there anything involved in transferrring a boat from a trailer or such that could have caused these leaks--we had none all last summer despite some wicked thunderstorms...also any suggestions as to how to find the source(s)?
- aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
The chain plates om my M leaked, and I found out from a heavy rain.
The factory uses about 2 cents worth of a 10 dollar tube of 5200.
The leak goes down and back along the liner lip so its hard to find. Look
under the liner at the chainplates with a flashlight and if its leaking you will see a brown stain up there. also run your finger in the lip of the liner and see if its wet. If its dry have someone run a hose at those spots (outside) and while your inside look for drips. Is the bed in the very back corners wet?
This is something you already thought of but make sure the lip on the slidding hatch is over the front hatch.
use a hose if you cant find anything
The factory uses about 2 cents worth of a 10 dollar tube of 5200.
The leak goes down and back along the liner lip so its hard to find. Look
under the liner at the chainplates with a flashlight and if its leaking you will see a brown stain up there. also run your finger in the lip of the liner and see if its wet. If its dry have someone run a hose at those spots (outside) and while your inside look for drips. Is the bed in the very back corners wet?
This is something you already thought of but make sure the lip on the slidding hatch is over the front hatch.
use a hose if you cant find anything
- rookie
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:48 am
- Location: knoxville,tn 2005 M "It's About Time"
leaks
thanks avitar for the info. I have noticed some moisture at the foot of the stern berth which I had attributed to the large hole for the steering rod. until now I hadn't thought about how far a leak can travel under the liner.would it be a good idea to just reseal all through-deck hardware in general?
Rookie
Rookie
- Jeff S
- First Officer
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:13 pm
- Location: Cherry Point, NC 2000 26X Tohatsu 50
Do a search on leaks. You will find there are numerous sources of leaks and many can come from things installed on your boat that are different than other boats. What you can do (what I did) is tape paper towel pieces along the inside of the liner from where I found the water, then fore and aft. I figured if it leaked down onto the paper it would leave witness mark and would spare me from shotgunning the sealant everywhere (which I had already done).
I had a leak from where the controls went into the center console (doubt it is a problem on the M) where the water would run down the cables and drip onto the aft bunk then under. Easily fixed. The harder one to find was coming from the bow where the light/anchor roller mounted. The water leaked down into the foam areas, out a small hole and into the bilge. Easily fixed with sealant. I also had a leak from the ballast tank- confirmed using 3 bottles of red food dye. This slowly leaked into the bilge- easily fixed with epoxy.
Jeff S
I had a leak from where the controls went into the center console (doubt it is a problem on the M) where the water would run down the cables and drip onto the aft bunk then under. Easily fixed. The harder one to find was coming from the bow where the light/anchor roller mounted. The water leaked down into the foam areas, out a small hole and into the bilge. Easily fixed with sealant. I also had a leak from the ballast tank- confirmed using 3 bottles of red food dye. This slowly leaked into the bilge- easily fixed with epoxy.
Jeff S
- aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
ok what you may have found is what I told you. the chainplate (s) could very well be leaking. It s real obvious when you look up at them from inside the boat, the 5200 is brownish from rust stains. The chain plate will need to come out (very easy) but you do have to have two people and lower the mast at least partly. One person will turn the bolts from outside as the other will use a long socket and extension to hold turn from inside.
Once you have them out then goop them real good with 5200 sealer. (thats what the factory uses, just not enough sometimes I guess) replace them and start the nuts from inside with your socket. Tighten them and your good to go. Remember where your rigging is attached. You dont have to uncouple the rigging at the side stays but its easier to do that after you lower the mast. easier to work with the chainplate. you didnt say where your from, if your close to MDR calif Ill help you do it.
never mind, knoxville a little far
Once you have them out then goop them real good with 5200 sealer. (thats what the factory uses, just not enough sometimes I guess) replace them and start the nuts from inside with your socket. Tighten them and your good to go. Remember where your rigging is attached. You dont have to uncouple the rigging at the side stays but its easier to do that after you lower the mast. easier to work with the chainplate. you didnt say where your from, if your close to MDR calif Ill help you do it.
never mind, knoxville a little far
- Brian Russell
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:02 pm
- Location: Arlington, TN
- Contact:
I was getting leakage into my 97x, aft berth area. I finally tracked it down to the fuel storage lockers. There is a seam along the front edge, between the locker floor and the inboard wall that is caulked (poorly in my case). Also, the weep hole was blocked up, so the rain that did blow in here tended to stay around and seep through. I cleaned the seam, re-caulked w/ 5200 and now try to keep the weep holes open. Solved the leakage. Check your windows as well. Cheers...
- kmclemore
- Site Admin
- Posts: 6276
- Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 9:24 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Ambler, PA -- MACX2018A898 w/ Suzuki DF60AV -- 78 BW Harpoon 4.6 -- 2018 Tahoe 550TF w/ 150 Merc
Had the same problem wih my 98X. I also cleaned and re-sealed the seam, but I also enlarged the drain holes to ensure they would not get clogged as easily in future. I paid particular attention to getting the bottom of the holes as close to the bottom of the compartment as possible so they'd drain more completely.Brian Russell wrote:I was getting leakage into my 97x, aft berth area. I finally tracked it down to the fuel storage lockers. There is a seam along the front edge, between the locker floor and the inboard wall that is caulked (poorly in my case). Also, the weep hole was blocked up, so the rain that did blow in here tended to stay around and seep through. I cleaned the seam, re-caulked w/ 5200 and now try to keep the weep holes open. Solved the leakage. Check your windows as well. Cheers...
- mtc
- Captain
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 5:06 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Panama City Beach, Florida 05 M 'Bellaroo' 60hp Merc BF
Chain plates leaked on mine - no sealant used at all. Once removed, re-seated and sealed with 52, no leaks.
The aft berth was also collecting water from the ped where the control cables were run - also without any sealant.
Now she's water tight, except of course, for the area around the aft companion way hatch. But that will only leak in an incredible rain storm.
Michael
The aft berth was also collecting water from the ped where the control cables were run - also without any sealant.
Now she's water tight, except of course, for the area around the aft companion way hatch. But that will only leak in an incredible rain storm.
Michael
- Chinook
- Admiral
- Posts: 1730
- Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 7:20 pm
- Location: LeavenworthWA 2002 26x, Suzuki DF60A
chainplate leakage
Regarding leaks, Todd at Bluewater Yachts advises against using 5200 to seal the chain plates. I think it's considered a bit too rigid, and the movement there under stress of sailing is likely to break the seal. He recommends using a simple clear silicone caulk, which remains more flexible. Good idea to make cleaning and recaulking the chain plate seam an annual maintenance item. This has worked well for us.
Mike Cecka
Mike Cecka
