Power Trim Problems

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 5:18 pm

Those two wires each lead to a separate square box. I pulled them apart and the just look like junction boxes...wires lead in from each side and they snap together. Are those the relaysor solonoids? From there they go to the trim switch and from there join another bunch that are gang wrapped and I can't follow them further.

I ran a jumper from the red terminal to each of the wires (one at a time) coming from the tilt pump and held the switch but nothing happened. Does this mean the problem is further down as you say? Like the pump itself?

aya16 · Post by **aya16** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 5:32 pm

ok do we have power at the switch we need to see that first, middle wire of the switch should be hot all the time the battery is on, from there you trace the two other wires to that box you talked about (relay) when we puch the trim button the wires coming out (one will) be hot you let go then should be dead. Between the relay and the switch there might be a fuse or the wire going to the middle of the switch back before the switch should be a fuse. the two outer wires on the switch will not have a fuse.

the relay or sylonoid ( SOMETIMES LOOKS LIKE A FORD STARTER SYLONOID, i should learn how to spell it) is where you jump it with your battery wire if no power to the switch. go from there and ill stay on line or call me 562-494-5049

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 6:21 pm

You're very patient, Aya! I've given up on myself and you're still hanging in there!

I've got to get another continuity tester and the stores will all be closed tomorrow, so this will have to wait. But I may take you up on the offer of a phone call once I get another one....

Thank you again for all your help.

aya16 · Post by **aya16** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:24 pm

In that case call my cell Sunday 310-994-4212 dont give up you dont want to find it to be simple and pay a couple hundred in the process.

If you keep burning the bulb out of the tester are you sure you have what I discribed. A light one ground wire and a pointed end screw driver looking thing. Cant burn it out if you touch another ground it just wont light if you touch two hots it wont light but it shouldnt burn out. Test only one wire at a time. well get to the bottom of this wish you were close

James V · Post by **James V** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:53 pm

And can anyone explain why the manual tilt release, that you are supposed to turn with a screwdriver...would be plastic? It was pretty stripped before I tried....now it's useless.

Yea, I hate those plastic parts that are to be turned later. In order to loosen this you can - scrape the area off. Spray with some sort of rust/penetrating oil. Several times per hour for a while. Get a flat punch and hammer. Tape the side of the casing where the plastic release is. Get your biggest screwdriver, place it on top and lightly tap. Find a flat spot close to the edge and use the flat punch. Hope that works.

Chuck Healey · Post by **Chuck Healey** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:40 pm

My problem turned out to be a loose ground wire from the battery. Since you have power elseware on the boat, I guess your situation is different.

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:14 pm

Yeah, that was my first idea...I checked and cleaned all connections to the batterys because I that problem last year - but that was no power to the motor at all.

I'll get another (!) continuity tester and have another go when I get some time one night this week.

And Aya - yes I have (had) the right tester, but can't explain why it keeps burning out. I wish you were close too....OK now we're getting scary...but it's just our love of Macs coming through, right

Richard O'Brien · Post by **Richard O'Brien** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:54 pm

Sorry this isn't going well for you Beam's Reach. I just checked my Mercurywiring hoping it might be the same as Mariner's. My wires coming directly from the pump are light green and blue, If I disconnect the blue one and run a small alligator clip wire from the red battery cable it raises. If your colors are different, and you've more than two wires I can't help? If the motor doesn't start when you connect the blue wire, then the motor is in question. See if it was chafed along the cowling, or further down? I can't figure why they put a plastic screw in the motor. that has to hold a lot of pressure. Engineers! You gotta love'em sometimes? The motor and tilt cylinder are both about 8or9" high x 2-2/2" in diam. and sit side by side on most tilts. Good luck.

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:03 pm

Yes, Richard, that sounds the same as mine - blue and green wire, but jumping power to them doesn't help. I assume the moter and pump are side by side down there, but with the OB in the down position, I can't see much.

I'm going to keep trying since I have some time...our marina doesn't open for another month, but I console myself with the fact that I've had my Mac for a whole year now and while I've spent a little money on minor upgrades and equipment, I haven't spent a dime on fixing a problem, so I guess I'm due.

aya16 · Post by **aya16** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:54 am

Ok now we are close, if jumping those wires doesnt produce any action now you can find the pump motor. those wires you try to jump go to the elec. motor that turns the pump lets try and jump those but not tie them together, in other words have someone touch them together for a few seconds as you take a hammer and tap on the elec. motor a little dont smack it hard but tap it like you would a finish nail. If the motor starts to whirl at that point then you have a froze motor. if the motor is frozen and you leave those jumper wires on to long they will fry so dont do it more than a few seconds at a time. If it turns out to be the motor then once you raise the engine you can change it yourself (I have faith in you) Might be why you fry the bulbs in the testers your way overloading the wires if that motor is stuck. Cant understand why a fuse doesnt blow though. With power to the motor thats what it more then likely is , bad motor.
but if its noe totaly frozen you can probaly get it to work by tapping on it.
I wouldnt count on the motor to continue to work later though. You might have gotten water in it and its rusted up inside.

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:42 pm

OK! Finally got the manual release out...stripped the h*ll out of it but now I have an excuse to try to find a steel one to replace it.

I've got the OB titled up and I can get at the tilt motor now. I figure if I run these wires directly to the battery and nothing happens, then it's definately the tilt motor. And since Aya has faith in me, I'm going to order an new one and install it myself.

Sound right?

aya16 · Post by **aya16** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:56 pm

Waitttttttttt did you tap on the motor?

no noise right? if its turning and wont go up it might be the fluid in the pump is out.. Before you order a motor take yours off and open her up see whats up rust, frorzen? good luck

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:10 pm

Yup. Hooked directly to battery and tapped...nothing. So next step is removing and opening the motor for a look see. Thanks Aya.

Beam's Reach · Post by **Beam's Reach** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:32 pm

Opened the trim motor and all looked OK. Didn't appear to be any water or corrossion. Cleaned it up a little and put it back together. It spins fairly smoothly by hand but when I connected it to the battery again it still won't run.

Are these worthing trying to get serviced or is it better to just put a new one in?

aya16 · Post by **aya16** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 7:15 pm

did you ground the outside case when you put power to the motor?
If so I would have it looked at by an electrical shop see what they can do with it first. good vacume cleaner repair place automotive elec. any place that deals with elec. motors not pepboys or auto parts.

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Power Trim Problems