I'm in the process of installing a new autopilot (Sportpilot +) and realized the wiring from house Batt to the original 4 switch panel (upgrading to a 6 switch) is nothing more than a white lamp cord. This can't possibly handle the possible max current loads out of that panel properly. I'll be rewiring this under-designed circuit ASAP.
OK, I'm thinking while I'm at it, do it right...do the whole boat. So, what I'm looking for is some guidance on a practical (KISS orieted) electrical circuit approach. I've got the two Batts (house & start) and feel I should add a main 4 pos. switch (off, Batt 1, Batt 2, and parallel), some kind of isolater for effective charging, and possibly a simple AC hockup for charging (one outlet in cabin for use at dock).
Any suggestions? Applicable Circuits layouts I can download would be usefull...
Thanks
Rewire & replace 26X Lampcord ASAP...
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
- Captain
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:48 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Oceanside Harbor, CA
sportpilot + ??? i thought that model was discontinued.
regarding the wiring, what model and year do you own? that makes a difference.
also, FWIW...the most difficult part of re-wiring the lampcord will be following the current layout. in several locations it's an extremely tight fit.
also, you might as well wire for the head and a couple of reading lights.
Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI & '06 2.5-Suzuki
regarding the wiring, what model and year do you own? that makes a difference.
also, FWIW...the most difficult part of re-wiring the lampcord will be following the current layout. in several locations it's an extremely tight fit.
also, you might as well wire for the head and a couple of reading lights.
Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI & '06 2.5-Suzuki
Rewire & replace 26X Lampcord ASAP...
Bob, I was lucky to locate via internet a new sportpilot + that a guy bought but never installed on his boat (went with another much larger system). It's a couple years ald but essentially "in the box new". It fits perfectly and passes the dry (on land test so far). After I do my rewire thing I'll launch for the real test.
My boat is a 2000 MacGregor 26X.
Regards,
Ray C
My boat is a 2000 MacGregor 26X.
Regards,
Ray C
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
- Captain
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:48 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Oceanside Harbor, CA
I've got the Sport Pilot product as well. had for 3 years. works fairly well. it's not quite the product that i was looking for. does utilize the space very efficiently and is user friendly. they have had some quality control issues, and thus discontinued it. however, mine has worked as promised during my ownership. i'm hopng that they can make a better one in the future so that i can upgrade.
as you know, the 2000 X has the DC panel located on the port side right inside the cabin. that is actually the "preferred" location. I would suggest that you keep it there.
many have gone to a larger panel which allows for additional lines.
as most, i mounted my AC-shore power panel directly next to the existing DC panel and brought in my AC-shore power from the port bulkhead directly behind. that works best for most. it's an easy access and quick mod.
regarding re-wiring:
- for DC: the most difficult task will be following the existing lines that run to the rear, then down and along the sides to the port chainplates and back up and across to the mast or dining area light. it's extremely tight and difficult to access. my suggestion is to go slow, think it thru, and pull the "fill plugs" where needed to gain access. however, it'll be a task to use much larger wire in some of those tight spaces. not saying it can't be done, just a task... you might also consider wiring (via a splice) a head light and a reading light as well. very easy mod.
- for AC: most use traditional housewire. stranded is preferrred and best. i installed (as others) several box outlets in my chosen locations. one being in the bilge near the battery bank so that you can utilize a small on-board charger. that way when you've got shore power, your house lights will still be used via DC, but your batteries will stay "topped-off" with your on-board charger. the other outlets can be used for coffee maker, micro, hot plate, etc.
Finally, regarding your battery set-up...
- as most on this board, i incorporate two batteries. i use the west marine battery combiner (now the Yandina Marine Combiner on the net). others have suggested different methods.
- the combiner seperates the house from the starting battery (as you probably already know).
- then i use a traditional 1,2,off,both switch. others use the 3 switch method.
i got all my ideas from the Mod pages on this site and then designed my own concepts as well (as most have done).
have fun and post your mods when complete!
as you know, the 2000 X has the DC panel located on the port side right inside the cabin. that is actually the "preferred" location. I would suggest that you keep it there.
many have gone to a larger panel which allows for additional lines.
as most, i mounted my AC-shore power panel directly next to the existing DC panel and brought in my AC-shore power from the port bulkhead directly behind. that works best for most. it's an easy access and quick mod.
regarding re-wiring:
- for DC: the most difficult task will be following the existing lines that run to the rear, then down and along the sides to the port chainplates and back up and across to the mast or dining area light. it's extremely tight and difficult to access. my suggestion is to go slow, think it thru, and pull the "fill plugs" where needed to gain access. however, it'll be a task to use much larger wire in some of those tight spaces. not saying it can't be done, just a task... you might also consider wiring (via a splice) a head light and a reading light as well. very easy mod.
- for AC: most use traditional housewire. stranded is preferrred and best. i installed (as others) several box outlets in my chosen locations. one being in the bilge near the battery bank so that you can utilize a small on-board charger. that way when you've got shore power, your house lights will still be used via DC, but your batteries will stay "topped-off" with your on-board charger. the other outlets can be used for coffee maker, micro, hot plate, etc.
Finally, regarding your battery set-up...
- as most on this board, i incorporate two batteries. i use the west marine battery combiner (now the Yandina Marine Combiner on the net). others have suggested different methods.
- the combiner seperates the house from the starting battery (as you probably already know).
- then i use a traditional 1,2,off,both switch. others use the 3 switch method.
i got all my ideas from the Mod pages on this site and then designed my own concepts as well (as most have done).
have fun and post your mods when complete!