AC POWER IN SLIP

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

and a mercedes is not nearly the same thing as a yugo (remember those?). but they both get the job done.

just trying to save a few $$$ on items that i rarely use.
for me it seemed like such a huge cost for an item so rarely used that i chose to go at it differently and spend my "boat bucks" (as Frank C. puts it) on something else.

[Lee T.]

[quote="Catigale"]

In my house at upstate NY I see variation between 108 and 130 Volts AC, peak to peak over the course of many days..I suspect that is pretty normal.


Think maybe RMS not pk to pk??

Our AC runs the same down here with periods of major lightning.
The computer UPS beeps a lot during this season.

Have been lurking for a while.
Thanks to all you guys providing great info and help.

Lee & Paula Twaits
Happy Ours 2
2002X 51771202
2003 50Hp Merc EFI non-BF

[Frank C]

Happy Ours 2
2002X 51771202
2003 50Hp Merc EFI non-BF

Welcome abd, Lee.

Study that hull number under a magnifier; bet that you'll see the "1202" is really " i 202".

The letter "I" indicates ninth month of the model year that begins in July.
Yours was assembled in March, among the last of the X-boats, closing out around 5200+.

[Frank C]

Oops - my bad! Assembly date "letter codes" begin with A=January, to "L" for December,
proceeding through the calendar year, not the "model year" as I wrote above.
(Thanks to Dealer Bill (Boats 4 Sail) for the reminder on assembly date codes.)

So Lee's boat, coded "I202" was assembled in September 2002. However, since Macgregor was ending production of the 26X, Lee's hull number is among a few special cases. Vessel ID numbers are prescribed by the USCG to follow this mask:

• MACX.hull.AY.my
  MACX = manufacturer and design, 26X (or MACM = 26M)
  hull = the serial number of the hull, runs continuously for a given design.
  AY = assembly date; A thru L = assembly month; single digit = calendar year.
  my = "model year" begins on July 1 each year and continue thru the following June 30.

But Lee's hull code "I202" means it was assembled in September 2002, as a model year 2002. This is unusual. The usual case is that a June assembly is coded "F202" as last of the old model year, while July assembly is coded "G203" as first of the new, 2003 model year. Lee's 26X should have been a model 2003 ... coded for the new model year as "I203."

But the factory "extended" their 2002 model year beyond June 30, 2002, probably because they wanted the model year 2003 to reflect only the 26M design. Complicating things even further, the final X-boats were actually granted the 2003 model year by the factory ... so Lee and many others actually DO own 26X boats for the 2003 model year. The 26X design numbered more than 5,200 hulls. The owner of hull MACX.5248.L203 has checked-in here on Heath's website, quoted below.

I know my boat wasn't the last one off the line, but its got to be close to the end of the production run for the 26X.

My hull number in # 5248, code is L203-- I believe that it is a Dec 02 production of the 2003 model.

[Captain Steve]

My AC panel has a reverse polarity light...what do I do if it comes on when I hook up?

[Catigale]

If you are at a new marina inform them that their hot and neutrals are reversed...

If you are at home and this happens, you probably bought a cheap exension cord that isnt polarised/grounded, and lets you

I confess, I once rewired an extension cord with a plug after I cut it with the hedge trimmer, and used it for two years before the boat AC told me I had the plug on backwards....most things you use outside it doesnt matter.

You can also fix this my inverting the gravitational constant of the universe....but that would be Pub topic.....

[DLT]

You can also fix this my inverting the gravitational constant of the universe....but that would be Pub topic.....

Inverting?

Wouldn't you have to reverse the polarity of the constant?

[kevperro]

You can use some large diameter adhesive lined heatshrink to help with H2O sealing. You have to make sure it is large enough in diameter to fit over the plugs. You typically need a fairly high 4:1 shrink ratio. The bigger the difference between the plug and the diameter of the cable the higher shrink ratio you need. As an alternative you can buy multiple smaller diameter 1/2"-3/4" sections of adhesive line shrink and build-up the cable diameter.