Removing the Center Board on the trailer

David Hampson · Post by **David Hampson** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:06 pm

Hi,
I have taken my 26X out of the water after my first season.
I would like to check the center board but on my trailer there is a support resting bar right across where the board would drop down. Has anyone any suggestions as how I can lift the boat on the trailer high enough for me to remove the board.
The reason I want to check the board is that during the season it occasionally stuck either in the down position and also when retracted.
Any help will be much appreciated

Bobby T.-26X #4767 · Post by **Bobby T.-26X #4767** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 2:39 pm

you might be able to do it this way...
- crank the trailer tongue to it's lowest possible level (closest to the ground)
- this will raise the transom/rear to the highest possible point
- now, place a jack stand or similar support under the bottom of the transom/rear
- finally, crank the trailer tongue to it's highest possible level which, in doing so, will raise the rear of the boat off the trailer (a lever principle)
- this should provide adequate space on the underside to lower the centerboard

this process is generally used for cleaning/waxing/painting the underside of a Mac.

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

ALX357 · Post by **ALX357** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:24 pm

the full removal of the board can be done by taking the nut off the bolt that holds the board hanger. That nut and bolt are accessed from the starboard side under the fwd settee. Remove the caulk etc and take the nut off. The bolt will probably be stuck in the hole by all the previously applied caulk etc. but can be driven down by indirectly hammer striking it via a piece of lumber (you supply) that has its end on top ot the bolt and the other end on the ballast tank hump.
Be sure to put something under the front of the board under the boat to catch it when it does come down there. Then you can remove the board from its hangar by drifting the pin sideways out of the hangar and board.

ALX357 · Post by **ALX357** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:30 pm

The full removal of the board can be done by taking the nut off the bolt that holds the board hanger. That nut and bolt are accessed from the starboard side under the fwd settee. Remove the caulk etc and take the nut off. The bolt will probably be stuck in the hole by all the previously applied caulk etc. but can be driven down by indirectly hammer striking it via a piece of lumber (you supply) that has its end on top ot the bolt and the other end on the ballast tank hump.
Be sure to put something under the front of the board under the boat to catch it when it does come down there. Then you can remove the board from its hangar by drifting the pin sideways out of the hangar and board. Remember the lifting line, to loosen it.

Bobby T.-26X #4767 · Post by **Bobby T.-26X #4767** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:08 pm

the method that AXL357 describes is the best way to completely remove the CB.
however, if you just want to check it for dropping and raising while on the trailer (without the entire removal), you can do as i described above.
this is a quick way to determine if you should then remove the CB for repair.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:56 pm

Even if you jack the boat up a few inches off of the trailer using the methods documented here, you will still only be able to lower the board a tiny bit while it is still attached at the front. So, it depends on what you want to do. If you only want to inspect a tiny bit (like making sure the board is moving), then that will work...but if you want to look at the whole board (or paint it), then once you go to the trouble of jacking the boat, you may as well just remove it.

Chip Hindes · Post by **Chip Hindes** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:32 pm

however, if you just want to check it for dropping and raising while on the trailer (without the entire removal), you can do as i described above.

Have you actually tried this? I have and on my '01X and stock trailer there's no way I can safely raise the boat high enough to make the board clear the trailer bunk. I've had mine jacked up over a foot.

Gazmn · Post by **Gazmn** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:28 pm

My used

came on a galvanized trailer with dual axles. Among the things I appreciated that the former owner did, was bolt a treated 4x4 beam to the trailer just past the first 24" of CB. I simply unbolt the 4x4 and can completely access, remove and service the CB.

My point is, this is a good modification to consider and execute.

Hey Chip, [while I might have told you already] I have Ed Goodhue's

...

I'm still playing catch up with all of his innovations.

Cheers,
-Gaz

David Hampson · Post by **David Hampson** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:24 am

Thanks for your imput gents. My next question is how high is it safe to jack the boat of the trailer? I don't understand why my "stock" trailer has this support going across the centre board opening. I have checked the original paperwork I was given, and the trailer number is MB160MAC113, is this a Macgregor original?
Thanks

captronr · Post by **captronr** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:16 am

All this is good info for those of us looking to buy an used X.

Sounds like short of a trip under the boat on the water, there's no way to tell if the board is fine or beat to a pulp.

Maybe one should just assume he will need to replace it on a used boat and factor that into the price???????????

ALX357 · Post by **ALX357** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 3:01 pm

If your X trailer did not have a support right under the board, road vibration and shock would put an excessive strain on the lifting line, exit block, and jam cleat, maybe allowing the board to drop accidently while at 60 mph. Also, if the trailer allowed the centerboard to lower past the hull, and the board did drop down accidently as you were launching, t would be jerked forward in a collision with the trailer rear cross-member.

I agree that a removable, bolted in, cross member would be convenient, but on the flimsy X trailer, that would be a significant weakening of its already minimal structure.

Chip Hindes · Post by **Chip Hindes** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:23 pm

My next question is how high is it safe to jack the boat of the trailer?

That would depend on your own comfort level. As I stated, I had mine over a foot off the front bunk using a five ton floor jack and 6x6 blocks. I was careful to jack only straight up (a floor jack tends to pull it sideways as it goes up). I never jack it up unless the trailer is securely locked onto the tow vehicle; you can't afford for the trailer to start moving out from under the boat. When it's raised off the bunks even a few inches I block it solidly with wood then lower the jack and rock it to ensure it's not going to go sideways. And I don't put arms, legs, hands or head in between the boat and any other immovable object (like the trailer bunks).

I have checked the original paperwork I was given, and the trailer number is MB160MAC113, is this a Macgregor original?

My stock '01X trailer number doesn't look anything like this but since I have no idea whether these numbers have any meaning or whether the the numbering system may have changed, I wouldn't necessarily say yours isn't stock. Look on the trailer, left side frame rail just aft of the tongue for the trailer data plate. The data plate should show the manufacturer; if it's made by Macgregor or anyone else it should say so, as well as the serial number and gross weight rating. It's illegal to paint over of remove these though I'm sure people do it all the time. The Mac trailer is pretty unique looking and there are plenty of photos for you to check against: if it looks like a Mac trailer it probably is.

I agree that a removable, bolted in, cross member would be convenient, but on the flimsy X trailer, that would be a significant weakening of its already minimal structure.

My centerboard is held up by it's aft 1/2 inch by the wooden part of the bunks in the V formed where the two sides of the bunk meet. I believe I would only need to cut a slight notch in the foreward edge of the V to drop my board, and I could then hold it up for trailering by screwing a short piece of 2x3 to the wood bunks. I've been thinking of doing this for a few years but never got around to it. I'm gonna do it.

mike uk · Post by **mike uk** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:50 am

David

The UK trailer is completely different to the US one.

The standard UK trailer for some years was a single axle one made by West Mersea Trailers and there should be a sticker on it to confirm this.

You can drop the CB straight out from under this trailer. There is a central cross bar but it doesn't interfere with the CB. Just unbolt the CB and lower it onto the axle then wiggle it out.(To do this single handed, lash ropes across the beams of the trailer to catch the CB as it drops out (you'll need a helper to bolt it back in).

Mike

Retcoastie · Post by **Retcoastie** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:54 pm

ALX, you would only relieve the strain of the centerboard on the line, block, and cleat, etc. if you released the line prior to trailering. This would allow the board to rest on the center bunk. Without the release the weight would still be on the line, etc. I wonder how many here actually do release the weight before taking off down the highway. I don't.

ALX357 · Post by **ALX357** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:10 am

I think that even with the line left cleated - board all the way up, the line momentarily stretches with inertia on the board from bouncing down the road or waves, either one - allowing the board a bit of momentary drop-bounce below the hull line. Maybe the wire lines stretch less, but there is a bit of stretch in the thick Polyester line on mine. The trailer cross member limits that stretch-bounce lowering of the board, even while it is cleated off tight.

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Removing the Center Board on the trailer

Removing the Center Board on the trailer