maddmike wrote:A couple of things to consider; at least I would now that I have had my 'wing' on the centerboard for a couple of years and learned some things.
(1) I would go with a 1/3 larger foil with more sweep in the leading edge because the 80 degree angle on my current 'wing' has a tendency when it snags sea grass or other like things to 'hold on to them' rather than let them slip off.
(2) I think next time I'll go with a heaver wing made of SS and glassed over, mines just a bit too small to be effective.
(3) Keep in mind that on the 'X' boat, because the wing has to rotate in order to properly attack the current flow as the centerboard is raised and lowered (and yes it works fine in any position) it has a tendency to want to 'fly' the centerboard back to the full up position as speed increases and you point higher
(I solved this by locking my board in the down position with a 'sheer pin'-designed to cut loose just in case I hit something). Also, I'm not sure that a 'stock' board will handle the extra load of a wing; remember my board is basically an 'Army Tank' down there. --MM
Now Mad Mike has moved off into a different place, BUT
Others have tried to reduce the clunking at anchor by taking the slop out of the hinge pin and shimming the sides of the board. This results in a board that won't stay down! If the board can't twist and jam, it won't stay down! The mystery in my mind has been answered!
There are ways to deal with a "rolley" anchorage. A stern anchor to keep the boat head to swells, a device called a "flopper stopper", underwater parachutes hanging off each side and connected to your halyards..Or beach the boat!
Others have tried to reduce the clunking at anchor by taking the slop out of the hinge pin and shimming the sides of the board. This results in a board that won't stay down! If the board can't twist and jam, it won't stay down! The mystery in my mind has been answered!
You are making this way more difficult than it is. There is not a lot of slop built into the system, only enough to allow the board to be raised and lowered easily when not under side loads. The board does not need to twist to jam itself against the sides of the trunk. Taking the slop out of the hinge pin and shimming the sides does not result in a board that does not stay down, but making things too tight may result in a board that does not fall on its own, and that makes it totally useless. As far as I know, there is no way to make a stuck board fall without diving under the boat to pull it down manually.
Also the discussion about gybing centerboards has been had before. The X CB is not designed to gybe.
Since there were a couple of questions about what the board has in it or what it looks like, here is my repair link when I worked on my CB last year. Notice the holes in the end of the CB. The CB fills with H2O just like the rudders. That is the only 'ballast.'
BTW, the admiral and I anchor and sleep often. We put CB up (we tried it both ways) and we have only anchored in <10 feet and in backwaters around here. We sleep like babies and love the Mac. Of course, if a large boat goes along a 100 yards off or so, we rock, but it is a boat and we don't mind the gentle rocking. It sometimes can be used to provide a nice motion when we get the notion....
Opie
I had the C/B out of my 1 1/2 yrs ago it would clunk like crazy at anchor or dock side so when I had it out to repair I found the pivoting hole was enlarged to more than 1/2" hole with a 3/8' pivoting bolt. I resined in a 1/2" bronze bushing with a 3/8" ID hole to correct this no more clunking C/B but now the CB is to hard to pull up or drop down unless I turn into the wind so the CB does definetly not need to jamm against the trunk. With the 1/2" pivoting hole in the CB it would adust up or down on a reach no problem .
So on my new CB which I waited almost a year for from the factory only has a 5/16" pivoting "rough" hole I'll be drilling it out to 1/2" resining in a 1/2 OD x 7/16" ID hole bronze bushing or maybe 9/16" if I go with a s/s bushing that way it should go up or down easy & hopefully not be to sloppy to bang around my CB weights in at about 23lbs the board does fill with water only so as to keep it from floating re trapped air ? . Still working on a hinged brkt for my winged CB
With the 1/2" CB pivoting hole & 3/8" bolt when I said the CB would go up or down no problem I ment that it will work its way down slowly when the CB line is eased & took considerable force to adjust back up while sailing on a reach . But with the 3/8" pivoting hole & bolt I had to point the boat into the wind to adj the CB up or down & it was impossible to pull back up unless I slowed the boat down considerably . Thats why I'll make the pivoting CB hole a little larger this time
Highlander, look closely at the pictures in my link above and you will find that the pin could be cemented into the CB and be immobile and it would not affect what you are worried about. The "X" factory design has the stainless steel pin pivoting in the stainless steel bracket, and thereby it is almost frictionless. Whether or not the pin moves freely in the CB does not affect the swing of the CB. However, if the hole gets too large, the CB swing wil be affected.
The CB pivoting bolt on the mac19 is located inside the ballast tank through the CB trunk in a fixed possition so the CB pivot hole wears alas my decision to bush the CB pivot hole it will stand up better & longer than wearing on the CB itself
My humble apologies. When I get to typing, I fail to use my head sometime, for I should have read that you have a different boat. Three lashes with a wet halyard, matey. Arrrrrr.
1 1/2 yrs ago it would clunk like crazy at anchor or dock side so when I had it out to repair I found the pivoting hole was enlarged to more than 1/2" hole with a 3/8' pivoting bolt. I resined in a 1/2" bronze bushing with a 3/8" ID hole to correct this no more clunking C/B but now the CB is to hard to pull up or drop down unless I turn into the wind so the CB does definetly not need to jamm against the trunk. With the 1/2" pivoting hole in the CB it would adust up or down on a reach no problem .
