Thx Kmc.
Jots ... you can try the 3rd example, but that drawing was my drawing over-simplification of a more complex bridle. I've never tried the simplified version, but another owner said it didn't work for him. Just a guess, it's illustrated with rode taut to the bow, so that prolly defeats that bridle.
Notice in the second example that the rode is not taut to the bow .. it's cleated at the bow only as a fail-safe, but left slack. The rode is tied at the last pulpit stanchion. That tether point prevents the bow from tacking across the wind. So the easiest approach is just snubbing the rode at that stanchion. I know the 2nd example works well on my 26X, but I don't like using that stanchion. I bought a couple of 10-inch cleats instead.
If you really want to use an adjustable bridle, tie a bowline loop about 6 feet along a 20' dockline. Attach that bowline loop to your anchor rode using a cow hitch (bottom diagram), leaving slack to the bow. The anchor rode is still cleated at the bow, but it also has surplus slack from bow to the bridle. Tie the short end of bridle at the stanchion, and cleat-off the longer end back to your same-side sheet winch. The bridle's "bowline hitch" on the rode now permits you to adjust the anchoring tether point fore and aft along that side of the hull. (
Fourth drawing tomorrow).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lark's_head
