Anchor for weeds

[Mark Prouty]

Last week I got a Bulwega anchor to hold in a bay I use. I also had a Danforth thrown overboard. They held for 4 days. I would tie the dinghy to them when I was off in the boat. I wanted to move and pulled both anchors. For the life of me I couldn't get either to hold again. It wasn't fun setting up the sails.

Bottom line. What is the most reilable anchor for weeds.

[Scott]

I dont know about weeds but I know mud.

Lost my third anchor off a Mac last weekend.
1. 3 or 4 years ago dropped in rocks, we went swimming and noticed the boat drifting to the dam, damn clip at the end of the rode was tore up.

2. pulled anchor from locker, thrown over to get a quick set. Watch end of chain fly over with no rode attached. 2nd time in my life I did this. last time I was 10 with dad yelling at me THROW IT THROW IT< but dad> THROW IT, OK "splash". My kids give me a ton of grief and tell everyone about it like I do it every weekend. Oh yeah, he made me free dive the 35' to reattach it.

3. Dropped anchor in our fav cove so my oldest and a couple friends could take a dip. Went to retrieve and it was concreted in. Even tried to pull it by backing it with the motor. Bust out superknife. "Slice the rode"

So no I dont know weeds, but I am peppering the bottom of our lake with my anchors.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Traditionally, I believe that plow anchors are supposed to be the best for weeds and Danforth are supposed to be the worst. But I thought the Bulwagga was supposed to be a good weed anchor also At least that is what they advertise...and for that price, it should hold in anything.

[Mark Prouty]

I'm new at extended sailing. We're vulnerable out there.

A couple of things I'm thinking to avoid getting dashed or rocks:
Relying too much on the engine and having it fail.
Having an anchor give way.

I'm also concerned that a cleet will give way with an anchor tugging at it.

signed,
a wimp

[Sibyl]

Mark,
I am curious how you like the Bulwagga overall so far? I thought about getting one for my boat. I can't help with the anchor question, I only have a Danforth right now. I can tell you when I went to the Bahamas we put out 2 anchors every single night. The captain said it allowed him to sleep, and I agreed with him. Mostly 2 bow anchors but once bow and stern.

On a side note.....when I first saw the bow cleats on the 26X I was astonished! I have a 26' Silverton and I have those size cleats amidships.....I consider them "fender cleats" LOL! I guess they work, it'll just take me a while to get used to them. I have a nice large samson post on the bow, gotten used to that. I don't suppose there is room on the Mac's bow for all the stuff I have up there currently. (Windlass, post, roller, line chocks)

[Mark Prouty]

I think the Bulwega is the way to go. I did get it to set in the weeds and found it a pull to get it back. I was having a hard time yesterday getting a set. Maybe I should have backed off on it.

From reading the old board, I am convinced the Bulwega it the best anchor to get.

I wonder where I can get an aluminum tube for it like this.


http://macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin/mod ... record=398

[bscott]

My Fortress does a pretty good job provided there is at least 20' of chain. The trick is to set the anchor at a speed that will turn the anchor over so that the flukes are facing down---sometimes you have to don the snorkle and set it by hand...if you are in the rocks you should use a trip line and float attached to the back end of the fluke so you can pull the anchor up from the opposite direction of the penetration. I think West Marine has a pretty good anchor selection guide in their catalogue. The also say the CQR is the best, and at $400, it should be.

[Frank C]

I think the Bulwega is the way to go. I did get it to set in the weeds and found it a pull to get it back. I was having a hard time yesterday getting a set. Maybe I should have backed off on it.

Mark,
I'm glad to read that your second attempt w/ Bulwagga worked (is that what I read?)! In my experience, it has always grabbed viciously, and yes, I've occasionially had difficulty hoisting it - never setting it. That much said, I'm not sure I've ever found myself over a grass bottom.

[Frank C]

BTW, Mark, I've been able to find metal stocks at a local retailer called the Metal Supermarket - probably would have a heavy-gauge aluminum tube. I think I'd just use PVC, but maybe you're unimpressed w/ it's aesthetics?

& on your question below ... I think 5' to 8' of chain is fine. I have about 15' and it's a PITA. (The aluminum Guardian might benefit from a little longer chain). I might try using a kellet instead of the longer chain. I suppose the downside is - w/ less chain, more of your nylon rode will be more suseptible to abrasion across the bottom.

[Mark Prouty]

My Fortress does a pretty good job provided there is at least 20' of chain.

I think the Bulwega will do pretty good once I get it figured-out. I bought 5 feet of chain for it. Is that enough for this type of anchor?

[Mark Prouty]

I think I'd just use PVC, but maybe you're unimpressed w/ it's aesthetics?

Ah, I just going to use PVC. I have some around.

[Larry Read]

Mark
I use a Bulwega and anchored in a cove Ive never seen anyone in our area use. The anchor set just fine. In the morning I found our why no one uses this area. I was not able to bring the anchor on board for almost 30 minutes. It not only set in the weeds it brought most of them up with it. I use a lot of chain, about 30 feet, use a scope of about 6 to 1 to start and then back up until it sets. After that I reduce the scope to what I need. I have had no trouble setting it.
I do have a question regarding the role pin on the Bulwega. What is its purpose and do you remove it if you think you are in an area where you might have a chance of freezing the anchor to the bottom? I dont like the idea of asking the wife for another one for my birthday.
Larry

[bscott]

Mark, I think 20' of chain is the cheapest and best insurance for holding in all kinds of bottom. Yes, it is a PITA to store, however, grounding is a worse PITA.

I suggest using the trip line and float method to retrieve in all conditions. I use a bumper as my float and measure the line out according to the mean high tide for your location---to retrieve, drive up to it while hauling in the anchor rode. Once over the anchor, haul in the line and float---this will pull the anchor out backwards, releasing the flukes and lessen the load of grass and mud when you get the anchor to the surface. Hmmm---I wonder what GLD as to say about this?

[Rich Plumb]

I'd just like to make one comment on recovering the anchor. I once anchored in a cove in Lake Mead, NV, and unknowingly, dropped the anchor over a submerged forest. When it came time to weigh anchor, I just could not get it to break loose. The solution for me was to take the anchor rode, directly over the side, to one of the sheet winches. I know that I was on a forest (pre-1937), because the Danforth finally came up with part of a tree in it's flukes.

Before you give up and cut the rode, try taking it to a winch.

Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
Covington, WA

[Jim Bunnell]

In the classifieds of Good Old Boat, a company called Euro Products Inc. has three sizes of anchor rope with sealed lead woven inside. The lightest is 3/8 line, 149 feet overall with the first 25 feet weighted. Also available are 225 feet of 1/2 inch line with 36 feet leaded, and 250 feet of 5/8 inch line with 50 feet leaded. It sounds like a solution to the PITA chain, and at 3/8 it's only $30.00. Plus, it comes with the thimble already spliced in, Mark.

They don't list a web site - the number is 1-800-577-3877

Any opinions?