Trailer Brakes and Bearings

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.
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vatalon
Deckhand
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 8:25 am
Location: Prince George, VA 2001 Mac 26x, s/v All The Way

Trailer Brakes and Bearings

Post by vatalon »

Just finished replacing my three year old trailer tires due to dry rot. I wanted to grease the bearings but could'nt figure out how to pull the brake drums off! Anyone have detailed instructions on how to grease the bearings and adjust the stock trailer brakes?
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Don T
Admiral
Posts: 1084
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:13 pm
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: 95 2600 "SS OTTER" - Portland OR - Tohatsu 50 - Hull#64 (May 95)

Post by Don T »

Hello:
Go to either the Dexter or Champion web site and download the maintenence help. They have alot of info.
jklightner
Engineer
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 1:49 pm
Location: Tacoma, WA

Post by jklightner »

My 1999 trailer has one piece drums and hubs. You have to remove the cotter pin and axle nut to pull them off. If you have Bearing Buddies installed, you have to take them off to get to the nut. I take a mallet, and hold a piece of 2 x 4 against the Bearing Buddy and go around the outside edge tapping it off. Clean your bearings, but don't spin them using compressed air! Check them and the races for heat marks, scoring or pitting. On mine, you have to pull the seal to check the rears. Might be a good idea to replace that seal while your in there. Also check the surface on the axle where the seal rides for grooving. While in here, make sure the star wheel adjuster for the brakes is free to turn, if not, remove, clean, and lube it before putting it back together. I use Neversieze. Put a big blob of grease in you palm, and start working it into the bearings, put more on the races, and more in that area between the races. If you have the bearing buddies, don't put them on yet. Once everything is all greased and back together, finger tighten the axle nut, and then put the tire back on. While spinning the tire, tighten up the axle nut just until you feel the tire start to bind, then back the nut off 1 castle opening and slip the cotter pin thru the axle. Be sure and use the right size, it should be big enough to keep the nut from wobbling. Grab the tire and give it a good shaking, it should be firm, not wobbly, yet turn free. Now get your brake spoon ( everyone has one, right?) and through the slot in back at the bottom, adjust the star wheel while spinning the tire and listening for the shoes just touching. Now put your Bearing Buddies back on and pump them with grease. Don't forget to tighten those lug nuts once you get the wheels back on the ground.
vatalon
Deckhand
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 8:25 am
Location: Prince George, VA 2001 Mac 26x, s/v All The Way

Post by vatalon »

Thanks for the info! It's been well over 30 years since I had auto shop in high school but I do remember the brake spoon. I did notice that my right brake drum was rubing the brake shoes when I had it up on jacks so I'll have to back that side off some. Again, thanks for the info.
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Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
Admiral
Posts: 2043
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 5:36 am
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Tampa, Florida 2000 Mercury BigFoot 50HP 4-Stroke on 26X hull# 3575.B000

Post by Dimitri-2000X-Tampa »

Since the trailer brakes won't self adjust like auto brakes are supposed to, I let them rub a tiny bit when I adjust them....otherwise, their effectiveness seems to wear off pretty quick and they don't grab much.

Also, wrt bearings, I crank that sucker pretty tight and it still will not stop the wheel from turning like I was used to in H.S. aged DIY auto mechanics. I don't know if that is good or bad and I just did it so have not had a chance to road test it yet...maybe tomorrow...but I figure there is more risk with leaving it too loose..?

Seems like both the brakes and bearings seem to work themself into a "groove" after a while.
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