LOVE THE X - HATE THE TRAILER

[rick retiree]

currently proud owner of a 2001 ,including the Mac factory trailer. Whats the deal with these trailers? There is no way I can keep the boat bow cradled in the trailer V after hauling out of the water at the ramp no matter how tight I winch it up! The infamous MacGegor bump doesnt work. Its unnervinging enough to have 3o or so inches of stern plus outboard motor hanging off the back of the trailer but add 4 or 5 inches because of slip back. Well, spent half the day yesterday to move the boat up 5 inches because had to get on highway to bring 50 Yamaha in for repairs. the only thing that would work was to disconnect trailer, used 2 boat jacks to raise stern, car jack to raise bow of boat off trailer, then put a piece of 6" plastic round plastic pipe under tongue and cranked away. Vola!, trailer slid back under boat, Thanks for putting up with this narrative. But has anyone considered or even converted a factory Mac trailer to a BUNK trailer? Its got to be cheaper than buying a new one for $4000.00 dollars Think about it. Why not? Meanwhile this 72 year old is boatless in Chicago,exhausted from yesterday and going to take a nap. Thanks guys!

[jon2710]

We've had a X for 10 years and never had a problem getting the boat tight to the trailer. You just have to be brave and do it while the hull is still wet. Drive about 3 boat lengths and slam on the brakes and here she comes. Yes the first time is a little unnerving and people in the parking lot will wonder what the heck you're doing. But, hey, they probably thought that when you brought the boat in so what do you care. We've always drained the ballast at the ramp first and if any one is still on board - warn them first. I have'nt gotten my feet wet recovering the boat in 7 years. Hope that helps.

Jon, "ga'Zel", Colorado Springs

[Hamin' X]

You must release the tension on the winch strap, before doing the bump. It pulls down on the bow.

~Rich

[DaveB]

My new 2008 Aluminum Tandem trailer cost me $2900 without brakes ( I added front stainless steel disk for $500) .
You never have to bump and very easy loading and launching in 2 ft. seas with guides.
Best part is you barely know you are pulling a trailer in a V8 pickup in flat level road, in my 1999 V6 ford f150 with standard trans. Max. tow 2000 lbs I don't feel it on flat grade doing 65mph.(185 mile trips to Pennicamp FL.)
With the Auto Trans. would be no problem.
Dave

currently proud owner of a 2001 ,including the Mac factory trailer. Whats the deal with these trailers? There is no way I can keep the boat bow cradled in the trailer V after hauling out of the water at the ramp no matter how tight I winch it up! The infamous MacGegor bump doesnt work. Its unnervinging enough to have 3o or so inches of stern plus outboard motor hanging off the back of the trailer but add 4 or 5 inches because of slip back. Well, spent half the day yesterday to move the boat up 5 inches because had to get on highway to bring 50 Yamaha in for repairs. the only thing that would work was to disconnect trailer, used 2 boat jacks to raise stern, car jack to raise bow of boat off trailer, then put a piece of 6" plastic round plastic pipe under tongue and cranked away. Vola!, trailer slid back under boat, Thanks for putting up with this narrative. But has anyone considered or even converted a factory Mac trailer to a BUNK trailer? Its got to be cheaper than buying a new one for $4000.00 dollars Think about it. Why not? Meanwhile this 72 year old is boatless in Chicago,exhausted from yesterday and going to take a nap. Thanks guys!

[extreem]

The Bump will only work on slick hulls. If you have bottom paint, don't even bother trying.

[Wind Chime]

If you think the trailer is bad with the boat on it ... try pulling the trailing around with no boat

I don't do this often but did it last night. Pulled it across town through the city and a short freeway haul. Man-Oh-Man ... the trailer was bouncing and bucking and banging, all over the place. Didn't matter what speed.

The last time I did this was last year and it did the same thing, and actually threw off one of the bunks. I didn't see it come off or notice until I got home. No idea what happened to it

[rick retiree]

thanks for feedback guys. no chance to pull off a Mac bump as "Summer Wing" is bottom painted and Yacht Club has gravel parking lot and driveway. Can relate to "Wind Chimes" trailer experience, Had a blow out on 1 of 4 tires while 100 miles from home, stowed boat and trailer in a gas station parking lot and went to small town Farm & Fleet general store and had the lad replace tire, Wasnt til I got home did I discover why trailer was shaking so badly (actually broke one of the springs), the radial tire was replaced with a bias tire. GO figure! Back to my trailer problem, kind of reluctant to buy a new trailer for a 10 year old boat. besides trailer has new bearings and is tandem axle but who would buy it if I got a new one? Could use 4bys like those Florida float on trailers and scribe to boat shape. that way it would provide extended support for stern & outboard but would raise the boat somewhat.

[SkiDeep2001]

Rick, my 98 is bottom painted with anti-foul and I have no problem bumping mine forward. It is not something I do in a parking lot. I wait till I'm on the street and up to 20/30 mph and hit the binders. I just make sure I have all gear on the boat secured before I bump it. Rob

[K9Kampers]

My is bottom painted as well, & I usually get the bump on the first try, sometimes it takes two. The biggest difference in making a successful MacBump for me was upgrading the tow vehicle from an Explorer to an F-150. My steel Mac trailer bounces when towed empty too.

[sailor141]

I always launch my boat from the trailer, usually from different boat ramps. The thing I learned about my trailer is that if I use a shallow ramp, the boat loads perfectly without having allot of trouble keeping it snug to the goal post. If the ramp is steep, it sucks. . When I retrieve my boat, I have someone pull the vehicle forward, while I tighten the winch as needed. This will ensure the boat is all the way forward on the trailer. I am planning on purchasing an electric remote controlled winch so I dont have to actually be between the tow vehicle and trailer. I used to live on the water with a ramp in the front yard which sloped down to a sandy flat bottom. When I backed the boat in there, the trailer was nearly level in the water which worked perfect when reloading. Hope this helps.

BTW, I sometimes let all of the winch line out, secure it to the frame of the trailer, then pull it in tight, which reduced the flexing of the trailer when its not loaded down. This reduced the tendancy for the trailer to jump around a little.

[Hamin' X]

My boat has anti fouling bottom paint and the bump works fine with my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Loosen the winch strap.

~Rich

[Newell]

Sorry,

You sailors make me laugh. Have posted on here many times the solution to the Mac Bump. Quite simple. Look at the winch location. Look at the angle of the winch strap. Think about it. Move the winch on top of present location. Run strap through hole you drill through V block arm. Never do the bump again.

Kiss principle.

[Nautek]

You might find that the angle of the front bunk on the trailer is your problem and need to makte you adjustment there
It is on mine

Allan

[tompolak]

Here is what works very well for me. I do not do the mac bump, just not my thing.
When I recover the boat, I pull it out of the water just enough to let the water ballast drain. As soon as it is empty I back up a few feet until the boat floats. I then quickly winch it up as tight as I can get it against the v stopper. Then I pull up another foot or so and check to make sure it is tight. Then I pull out of the water completely. Using this method I can usually get less than a 1 inch gap between the boat and the v stopper. It sounds like a lot of work, but it only takes a few minutes and I notice a hug difference when towing.

[SkiDeep2001]

Sorry,

You sailors make me laugh. Have posted on here many times the solution to the Mac Bump. Quite simple. Look at the winch location. Look at the angle of the winch strap. Think about it. Move the winch on top of present location. Run strap through hole you drill through V block arm. Never do the bump again.

Kiss principle.

Newell, 1 picture is worth a thousand words. Post a pic of your mod please. Rob