WD40?

[FAAbaddog]

All,

So my 2011 26M has light to moderate oxidation on the upper black accents (white hulled boat), one of my neighbors (power boat guy) swears by WD40 and so I used a WD40 soaked rag today to basically do the upper 2 levels of black. Looks great, what are the draw backs of WD40?

What approach will seal and shine for 1-2 seasons?

Thanks!

BADDOG

[Russ]

The biggest concern would be that it's slippery. Watch your step.

[kmclemore]

WD40 is just putting lipstick on the pig... makes it look pretty but the problem is still there. The problem is that your black has oxidized and until you remove that oxidized top coating you're going to have to keep reapplying that WD40 every few weeks or even days.

Get an automotive buffing wheel machine - either oscillating or non-oscillating - and use an automotive buffing compound (3M makes great products in this area). Use the wheel to buff out the black and remove all that 'dead', dull gel. Make sure to clean the buffing pad regularly as you go along, as you'll need to remove that gunk that's gonna come off your boat and onto the pad.

Note - you *can* do this rubbing-out by hand, but you'll bust your elbows and shoulders doing it, if you're doing it right.

Once buffed out, apply a good carnuba-based wax - I prefer Mother's Carnuba Wax - but it doesn't have to be any sort of special 'marine' wax, just a really good automotive wax will do. I've also seen good results with Nu-Finish wax, too. Wax it once or twice every season and you'll keep it looking like new.

[Divecoz]

What Kevin said about the buffing .. However there are Numerous "silicon" Polishes out today for the new Modern Plastics they apply as paint to our cars .. That have some?? UV protectants in them.. IIRC 2000 has this additive??

[kmclemore]

The 'paint-on' products that protect the fiberglass (like PolyGlo) work well... initially. If I was selling my boat I might apply one to get that high-gloss, hard shine look... but not if I was going to keep the boat long-term.

Over time these products themselves become dull and the problem there is that you then need to *remove* that product before you can re-apply a new layer, and there's where the rub is... they are a royal PITA to get off.

Plain old wax, applied regularly, is FAR easier and works great. Just ask anyone with a Corvette... you don't see them using PolyGlo.

[Steve K]

Baddog,
When I had my X boat, I found it easier to wet sand the black part first, before rubbing out or polishing.
Use #1500 and put a little dish soap in a bucket of warm water. Use a sanding block and don't let the area dry out as you sand. Rinse with garden hose as you go.

Now, when you polish it out (as others suggest... machine works best), it will take less work and time and it will shine better than ever, when you're done.
I prefer wax for final treatment and have had great results with Meguiar's cleaner wax paste.

After doing this, the black areas seem to be easier to take care of overall. (just re-wax as needed)

As far as the WD40 goes, I've seen many boaters use it right after pulling their boats out of the water. First thing they do is get out the ShamWow , the WD and go over the entire hull. Also have seen many use Pledge. (yep, regular old Pledge... I used to see hot rodders and custom car guys use this all the time too).
However!!! Do mind the warning and don't get either of these products on any surface you may walk on. It will be like wearing Teflon shoes and trying to walk on ice

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Keel_Hauled]

Just as kmclemore stated, that Poli-Glow stuff is a PITA !! My is covered in it and I'm trying my best to get it off... So far I've found that ZEP Floor Stripper works best followed by a nice rubbing with acetone. Still taking FOREVER to strip it, though. Anyone know of any "sure-fire" ways to remove this stuff ?

~K

[pokerrick1]

If I was selling my boat I might apply one to get that high-gloss, hard shine look... but not if I was going to keep the boat

Shame On You

Rick

PS I was just told by my garage door guy not to use WD40 to lubricate it but to ONLY use a silicone lubricant!! (I'll have to get somebody to do that! Maybe my wife???)

[bartmac]

Problem with WD40...oil product as the volatiles evaporate the residue will attract dust making a paste which does no good....garage doors,locks etc etc etc use silicone spray...seems to be taken up by aluminium,brass,plastics and continues to lube for a long time....used to do house maintenance and came across many a lock,aluminium sliding door or window stuffed read F#$%$# by the use of WD40.One product of interest is a lanoline based spray...seems to bind really well to some metals ie rusty steel

[kmclemore]

Just as kmclemore stated, that Poli-Glow stuff is a PITA !! My is covered in it and I'm trying my best to get it off... So far I've found that ZEP Floor Stripper works best followed by a nice rubbing with acetone. Still taking FOREVER to strip it, though. Anyone know of any "sure-fire" ways to remove this stuff ?

~K

Poli-Glow makes a special stripper for the job.

http://www.poliglow-int.com/poli-strip- ... -stripper/

[kmclemore]

PS I was just told by my garage door guy not to use WD40 to lubricate it but to ONLY use a silicone lubricant!! (I'll have to get somebody to do that! Maybe my wife???)

Why the wife? Does she have extra silicone?

[pokerrick1]

PS I was just told by my garage door guy not to use WD40 to lubricate it but to ONLY use a silicone lubricant!! (I'll have to get somebody to do that! Maybe my wife???)

Why the wife? Does she have extra silicone?

Not a drop (extra)

Rick

[seahouse]

Hey all!

One warning about anything (waxes ie Nu-Finish, protectants ie Armour-All, other lubricants ) that contains silicone – don’t put it on any surface that you might want to paint in the future. It’s very penetrating, and even when the surface is subsequently sanded and solvent-prepped, paint has a high likelihood of not adhering properly. I would expect this problem to be even much greater on gelcoat, which is very much more porous than an automotive or aircraft finish.

It’s an issue with Nu-finish which has silicone in it, which I am a big fan of when carnauba is not called for, (Nu-finish has been consistently rated highly in tests for years, and I have used it for 15+ years on cars and motorcycles etc) that I have experienced first-hand.

An acquaintance of mine has an auto body/customizing shop, and there I’ve seen the problem around the wheel arches of cars from the overspray of tire protectant/UV inhibitors. It rears its ugly head during painting as “fish eyes” on the paint surface in that area. He also curses products like Nu-finish in his business because of this issue.

Hey Rick!

What do you mean 'shame on you' to Kevin for using Poly-glo? It would be 'shame on you' if he put WD-40 on it right before he sold it!

Hey Kevin!
Now I want the Poly-glo fer shure! I like your idea of using “a special stripper for the job”. I bet I can find one of those at the Penthouse Club. Er… maybe the admiral won’t approve that.

- Brian.

[FAAbaddog]

All,

Thanks for the tips, very much appreciated!



BADDOG

[pokerrick1]

Hey Rick!
What do you mean 'shame on you' to Kevin for using Poly-glo? It would be 'shame on you' if he put WD-40 on it right before he sold it!
- Brian.

It was a tongue in cheek shame on him for just doing a cosmetic job before he would sell it and not do the job as if he were keeping it

Rick