Rub Rail Delete

[FLGSHP7]

I am considering deleting my rub rail entirely and glassing the deck to the hull with fiberglass tape. I'm currently in the process of prepping the boat for paint so it's now or never. I hate the way it looks, it's always leaked. And replacing the rub rail that I don't need is ridiculously expensive. It's been thrashed by the previous owners and both the aluminum track and rubber insert need replaced to look anywhere close to decent. Lots of boats without rub rails but the only thing I can see it doing is putting black marks all over my white fenders? Am I wrong?

I would be leaving about half the bolts

[opie]

156 bolts hold the top of the boat to the bottom hull along with 5200 sealant between the top and bottom. Yes, it sometimes leaks after the boat hits something on the rub rail and disturbs the connection and lamination or joggles the bolt. I recommend taking off the rub rail. Repair any leaks. Reseat the bolts one-by-one. Use sealant or glass it if you care to just on the horizontal connection. Then replace rub rail, as I do not believe you should remove bolts. Remember that the rub rail is just for a cushion to the lamination connection and was not intended as a water-proof seal. My own boat allows water to pass between rub rail direct down to water, but factory often recommended a top-side bead of sealant.

[Ixneigh]

Glass it. But don't spare the glass.
On my M I'm going to some day, glass the joint with five or six passes of biax and vinylester resin. I want to add strength to the side of the boat as well.
Ix

[vizwhiz]

I took out all 156 bolts from my deck joint (10-32 threads, by the way). Scraped out the old sealant (which was flexible, probably pre-5200), cleaned the joint as much as possible, and then laid a strip or bead of butyl rubber in there that I had purchased from Mainesail's website. Replaced all the bolts (tightened down repeatedly over several days). I can spray a garden hose against it and get no water in the boat. The new rub rail is on there now just as a bumper for protection.

For clarity, I had some hull damage in two places that required rebuilding. I heavily considered glassing the joint together in those two places to make the repair easier. I changed my mind and did the best repair I could (that's not saying much) to the pieces separately and bolted them back together when finished as described above.

[Seapup]

I'm currently in the process of prepping the boat for paint so it's now or never.

Thats a LOT of work to glass the whole joint IMO, but as you said now would be the time if you are repainting anyway.

Be sure to post pics of the progress and your thoughts on the job if you go for it.

[Bilgemaster]

For folks keeping that black rub rail who just want to dress up the odd scrape or gouge in it, I have found that the 4 oz. Performix Liquid Electrical Tape at Harbor Freight really does the trick...it's even a perfect color match, or as near perfect as I can tell. Just kind of glob it on in layers with the little brush attached to the can's screw-on cap, shaping it as it hardens with a business card or similar. Seems rugged enough once it's set: "rub rail redemption".

[vizwhiz]

For folks keeping that black rub rail who just want to dress up the odd scrape or gouge in it, I have found that the 4 oz. Performix Liquid Electrical Tape at Harbor Freight really does the trick...it's even a perfect color match, or as near perfect as I can tell. Just kind of glob it on in layers with the little brush attached to the can's screw-on cap, shaping it as it hardens with a business card or similar. Seems rugged enough once it's set: "rub rail redemption".

Great idea! Shoe Goo might do the same. Can't speak for the color match...but it is very rugged stuff once set.

[Bilgemaster]

"Shoe Goo" is definitely a snappier product name...Better yet might be "Jet Ski Be Gone"--infused with the scent of State Boating License and required marine equipment inspections (maybe an aroma of donuts?), since I can't believe any of the swarm of dimwits tear-assing around often four or five to a ski back and forth through the no wake zone basin within 20 feet of my park's boat ramps have ever even SEEN the Virginia Boaters Test, let alone passed it. Lots don't even have PFDs. I may have to mount an array of Roman candles on the bow this season just to get home.

[BOAT]

. . . State Boating License and required marine equipment inspections (maybe an aroma of donuts?), since I can't believe any of the swarm of dimwits tear-assing around often four or five to a ski back and forth through the no wake zone basin within 20 feet of my park's boat ramps have ever even SEEN the Virginia Boaters Test, let alone passed it. Lots don't even have PFDs . . .

. . Uh . . . that leaves me with a question: Is it further to New York than is is by plane?

[Bilgemaster]

. . Uh . . . that leaves me with a question: Is it further to New York than is is by plane?

No...No, it isn't.



"Passengers wishing to exit the plane at West Side Highway may do so now. Thank you for flying Delta!"

Actually, to be truthful...



Or, since you did bring it up recently in another thread...

[FLGSHP7]

Well, I went ahead and did it. I deleted the rub rail. Glassed it all in. It was 100x more work than I thought it would be too. I expected to get it done over winter. Then it moved into spring. Then I went sailing around Cape Hatteras. Then I did an Atlantic Crossing that ate up a large portion of my summer. Both trips as crew. Between work at my shop being so busy and being gone so much I'm finally finishing it up. I still have to spray the hull primer and topcoat. Using a single stage topcoat. Hull will be battleship grey gloss.

https://goo.gl/photos/egwbYDR2yzWBWEtaA