Interior paint

Bawgy · Post by **Bawgy** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 8:07 am

Hey Guys can I just use some best quality exterior house paint for inside the cabin ? I plan on adding some mildew resitance additive as well

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:47 am

I personally dont think that it would adhere for an entire season. Why paint inside anyway?? Is the fiberglass so raw that it cant be brought back??

Randy Smith · Post by **Randy Smith** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:20 pm

the best way I have found for me to paint the boat , I use a scouring pad, wipe down with a paint prep...then use epoxy paint.....I have seen boats with spots painted twenty years ago and the epoxy paint looks better than the gel coat.........I like to use appliance paint.....I am with Scott, what are you thinking of painting?

Randy

Bawgy · Post by **Bawgy** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 2:23 pm

Interior is peeling down to the raw fiberglass. I was thinking of some industrial grade exterior paint to dress it up . Like paint used on heavy equipment or steel stairwells .

Randy Smith · Post by **Randy Smith** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:21 pm

without seeing your problem, it is hard to give too much advice....if I understand what you are saying, then you are having a breakdown in gel coat inside the boat....that is not something I would expect....regardless, the way I would fix this is to sand those areas completely...us light(emphasis light, as too much will crack and break out) bondo to smooth areas, sand again(vacuum area before painting)....then mask and paint with epoxy paint as explained earlier....some folks might use gel coat....I really find the paint to be easy and more durable...don't forget to set up a way to ventilate....cover everything due to overspray. When i look at my boat, I could see some areas to paint for accent....you might find a way to make your repairs very attractive to augment the cabin.....good luck

Randy

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 4:23 pm

I think you would be money ahead looking into Marine paints

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

http://www.pettitpaint.com/

http://www.hempel.com/

http://www.marine-paint.com/

http://www.epifanes.com/

http://www2.sherwin.com/im/aboutus.asp

Just to mention a few

The Yacht paint site has a good how to and why section

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:30 am

(His Mac is an older boat, lacking the gelcoated, liner interior liner;
hence he's posting in the Macgregor/Venture forum)

Bawgy, I've never read too many reports here about painting the Mac 26 topsides or interior, prolly due to their full gelcoating. Your best bet would be to query a larger group of Mac classic owners, or maybe even other makes at the trailersailor's board. IIRC, most guys use two-part paints - expensive and lots of work, I think.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:16 am

How does Roger finish the edges of the fiberglass on the

in places like the companionway coaming? Is that just 5200?

If you could find that out, you might be able to use the same material on your raw fiberglass Bawgy....just a thought...

Post by **kmclemore** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:33 am

Catigale wrote:How does Roger finish the edges of the fiberglass on the in places like the companionway coaming? Is that just 5200?

If you could find that out, you might be able to use the same material on your raw fiberglass Bawgy....just a thought...

On my boat it looks like plain old gel-coat, probably hand-painted on.

I wonder if you can post some photos of the 'peeling', so we can see exactly what you're talking about? It would really help.

But without photos I'd do exactly what Randy has suggested - go with a good quality epoxy paint. However, you should prepare the surface really well - scrub it down with an anti-fungal detergent and let it dry *really* well (fan-forced heat works nicely, like an inexpensive milk-house heater). Once dry, then sand down the surfaces with 220 grit paper, but wear sturdy leather gloves as you do so, since the sharp fibers can stick up and give you some pretty nasty splinters if you're not protected (also wear a good dust-mask, too). Get the difficult areas with a coarse or medium Scotchbrite. Once sanded, vacuum up all the debris and dust with a strong cannister vacuum, then go over the areas with some tack-cloths (get them at a painting store - I never paint or varnish a surface without using them first - makes a huge difference in the final finish). Then mix your epoxy paint in small batches - give yourself enough to apply in about 60-70% of the setting time... it always applies slower than you think. Use either foam brushes or reasonably fine bristled brushes - the cheap brushes you can get for $1 each are going to leave streaks. As you apply the epoxy paint, always work it back into the area you've just painted, don't 'pull' away from the drying areas or you'll leave obvious demarkations between the sections.

It's a messy job, but the end result should look pretty. Good luck!

Randy Smith · Post by **Randy Smith** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:31 am

I would spray the paint.....guys, I have done it.......on classic boats, jet skis and my 26X....you would be amazed at how durable and nice the finish is....

I have a jet ski that some idiot(not me this time) knocked a hole in.....I didn't have a lot of cash, so I taught myself to fiberglass, fixed the hole, then went to Bi Mart...a store in the nortwest...bought good ratcan appliance epoxy paint and painted the whole machine....people were amazed and are still amazed three years later...it looks as good as my new machine.....this is the hull which we rip up and down the river, store outside in winter, jump 12 foot waves, trailer all around, and it still looks like the day I put it on.

Again, I have seen hull repairs on Mac 23's and 25's which were 20 years old using the same method....looked better than the gel coat.

On the inside of a Mac, this technique would be simple and quite durable.

It is what I would do, but there are other methods, and each to their own....good luck and like any project, getting started in a direction is the key.....the hardest part for me is to try and enjoy the process as I always "just want to get it done"

Randy

Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL · Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:28 pm

Blue paint dries faster.

Randy Smith · Post by **Randy Smith** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:33 pm

Bill, was that "runs" faster?

Randy

Post by **kmclemore** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 3:01 pm

Randy Smith wrote:I would spray the paint.....guys, I have done it.......on classic boats, jet skis and my 26X....you would be amazed at how durable and nice the finish is....

Yeah, I thought about recommending spraying too, Randy, but then I realized that he's gonna have to be *inside* the boat spraying that noxious stuff... and if so, he's gonna need a full suit, gloves, and a pressurized breather mask/hood because a simple OSHA filter mask isn't gonna be safe - too many dangerous solvents and floating polymers in too small a space - and that sort of breathing apparatus ain't cheap.... and without it he's at risk of dying for the paint job! Not good.

Bawgy · Post by **Bawgy** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:32 am

This boat is an old fixer upper I keep tied up at my lake house . I will brush the paint on I think . I am not looking for a showroom type finish . Just durablility and ease of application The paint has jst started to peel off exposing the fiberglass pretty good seeing this is a 1971 . I was hoping that best quality Exterior house paint or industrial paint would be ok

BG · Post by BG » Wed May 10, 2006 5:37 am

Hi All:

I had a '72 Venture 222 that I restored from a wreck. It had a piece-built plywood and fiberglass interior, no liner or gelcoat, that was a real merss inside... a couple years of standing rainwater will do that to a boat. Anyway, I painted the interior of my boat (after cleaning it with a sandblaster!)with a household-brand polyurethane paint by Red Devil. It worked well... good gloss, a hard finish, and was very inexpensive, bought on sale 'cause the cans were dented. Polyurethane is very sticky when going on, and has a tendancy to pull fibers out of cheap rollers.

The end result was a vast improvement, but then again, a lighted match would have been an improvement as well... the hull had some kind of fabric glued to the sides which was rotten and mildewed. The glue had failed in some areas, leaving a flaky mess that nothing would stick to. That's why I had to sandblast first.

The paint didn't hold up in the very bottom of the boat, though... I had some rainwater blow in through the companionway gaps, and it left a puddle for a few days. The poly peeled up in these spots. I spot-painted several times. The vertical surfaces looked great, though.

If I were to do it again, I think I'd try the epoxy spray can paint. I think you'd be OK if you used a good paint-vapor rated cartridge breather and TWO box fans... one blowing in the companionway and one pulling out of the forehatch.

Hope this helps
BG
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