Baja, Mexico- Report

[scott vos]

We just returned from a wonderful 3 week sailing trip down in the Baja with our Macgregor. I trailered the boat down to Puerto Escondido , 15 miles south of Loreto, launched it and sailed approximately 150 miles to La Paz. I carried an extra 10 gallons of gas (34 gallons total), worried as there are no marinas in between. We ended up burning a total of 5 gallons for the main engine (dinghy and generator another 5 gallons). The wind was mostly northerlys and you could count on 15-20 knots 4-5 days out of 7. It would usually kick up around 10 am and be consistant thru 4-5 pm. Other days it would be calm until 4-5 pm and then be windy thru the night. We had many 2-3 hour sails clocking 5-6 knots and reefed the main several times with the std jib. The Mac was very stable as I also was carring about 50 gallons of fresh water down low.

Most of the safe anchorages are 10-15 miles apart, leaving plenty of time to sail between them and have lots of daylite left to anchor and enjoy the bays. At most of the bays we stayed for 2 days, some times 3 if we had to wait for wind. Our daily activities included a long walk in the am followed by snorkeling for 2-3 hours. We would also explore the shoreline with the dinghy later in the day. The water is as clear as I have ever seen the ocean and the fish life is as beautiful as anywhere I have been also. I tried fishing a couple of times while sailing, never got a bite, but probably lucky I didnt. It turns out that at most of the anchorages , the fishermen would come to our boat and want to trade fresh fish or lobster for either D batteries for their flashlights and radios, fresh water, gas, or beer. We had more fish and lobster than we could eat the entire trip. I even talked one fisherman into letting me go with him and watch how he catches the lobster.

We met many different sailors on our trip. At our very first anchorage in Puerto Ballandra on the Islaa Carmen, after we had been anchored for only about an hour, a couple rowed their dinghy over to our boat, wine glasses in hand, and introduced themselves. They invited us over for odourvers on there boat that evening. It turns out that their from England and have sailed their Oyster 43, 6 months out of each year, for the last 7 years. They went to the Med, Canarries, ARC, Venesula, and up the Carribian, the entire East Coast and then had their boat shipped with Dockwise to Vancouver. They did Alaska, down the West coast, the HA HA and are now headed up to San Carlos to leave their boat there for the Hurricane season. Now thats what a sail boat is for. We met people like this in every anchorage. We would meet them on the beach or by dinghy. Many had sold there houses and cars and are either planning on, or have already been away for 5-10-15 years before returning to land. Others were able to keep there houses and sail 8-10 months each year. Its absolutely amaseing to me how many people are out there that have cashed out and casted off from this life style we all know .

We ended our trip tailoring the boat back up to Puerto Escondido from La Paz and attending the Loreto Fest May 4-7. This is a gathering of boaters that has been going on for the last ten years. Its original purpose was to clean the harbor and raise monies for charities to help the local kids. Over the years it has grown to 170+ boats with daily activities such as first aid classes, weather classes, ham radio classes and test, guitar classes, dinghy races, water volleyball, over the line base ball, horse shoes, dingle balls (dont ask), bachie ball, and nightly entertainment from all the volunteers that could play an insturment. AND IT WAS GREAT

I would highly recommend this trip to anyone contemplating doing it. The road down is in excellent condition, however it is somewhat narrow by our standards. It only gets scary in the mountainous areas when passing a semi-truck. I ended up driving home during the night, stradeling the center line (9pm thru 6am) and it was far safer as the truckers for the most part are off the road. The gas stations are open 24 hrs a day and desiel is $1.86 a gallon and gas is $2.10 a gallon once your 20 miles south of the border. For us west coasters, this is as close to being in the Bahamas, Tahiti, or the Greek Islands as you can get. The water is clear and warm, outside air temp was between 85-90 degrees, the marine life is abundant and amaseing, the people are friendly and prices are comparable with the states.

The real payoff for the entire trip is that the Admril had such a great time sailing and meeting people that she has finally given me the nod to begin the search for our next cruising vessel.

Scott and Marlo

I will be posting some pictures within the next week- lots to do after being away for so long

[Divecoz]

My first question??? Where and how did you store 50 gallons of fresh water down below ?

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

Scott...sounds like a great Mac experience ! I hope to see the pics, and the type of Mac you and the Admiral sail.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Scott...you didn't tell us how you got your vehicle and trailer from your "in" point to your "out" point.
who did the vehicle shuffle for you?

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI

[Idle Time]

This is the reason I check this site so often. I love to hear the stories. How did you manage cooler, laundry and all those other day to day chores. You were only gone 3 weeks but it will be interesting to hear about the daily life aboard. I take it the Admiral would be happy on a long cruise?

[Night Sailor]

Thanks for sharing your trip with us. In addition to the other questions about water, fuel storage, cooler arrangemtents, vehicle and trailer shuttle, etc. above, I'm interested in knowing if a knowledge of Spanish/Mexican language was necessary. My admiral is reluctant to cruise that coast since niether of us know that one.

[scott vos]

Divecoz- I have 32 gal tank built into the stb v-bearth (7-lbs empty, 250+ when full) I packed under the stern bed with 70 +/- 16 oz bottles of Aquafina and then had 8-10 gal under the seats.. The sink is preasurized and has a quick coupler hose so we are able to take showers topside

Bobby T- in La Paz we stayed at the new Costa Baja Resort for 4 days. two in the Feista Inn and two on the Boat. They have a free shuttle that runs into town several times a day so we caught the 8am bus in LaPaz, was in Puerto Escondido by noon, and back to La Paz by 5pm. The busses are very nice, a/c, and cost $30.00 one way.

Idletime-We have the Engle-40qt Refer-no ice chest needed. I find that it draws only .7 amp hrs at 30%. My mast head anchor light draws more power than the refer does. I used the Honda ei2000 and 20 amp smart charger every 4 days to recharge the batteries. We did the laundry in LaPaz, its amazing how little you need to bring in the way of clothing. We over packed of course (pack half as much and bring twice as much money)
When we get a larger boat i think we'll start out with the boating life maybe 1-2 months each yr. We also like to travel in the motor home 1-2 months each yr and do some traveling abroad also.

[They Theirs]

The Good Life, for those so privileged
Great story, makes us all want to follow your coarse.
Swept back spreaders sans backstay, loads of canvas makes the modern cruiser

Nice Boat, Looks like a Mac on Steroids.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Swept back spreaders sans backstay, loads of canvas makes the modern cruiser

Nice Boat, Looks like a Mac on Steroids.

$270K sans extras.

what is that...about 10 Mac M's???
let's see...3 Blue, 3 White, 3 Black and 1 "Mary-Kay" Pink

one in Cabo, one in La Paz, one in Loreto, one in Mulege, one in Santa Rosalia, and 5 left over...

[DLT]

You'd have to put the pink one in Key West...

[They Theirs]

Wow! My wishing was stronger than by buying.
It felt good for a moment.

[Terry]

TT's dream looks like the one I was on at February's BoatShow A Hunter CC not sure it was the 45 perhaps a 39' or maybe it was the 45, I boarded so many I can't remember but there was a 39' but I also can't forget the Hunter with the center cockpit, made me wish and wish upon a star. I really can see myself on that boat, now how do I get the money for it.

[scott vos]

Nightsailor-
I only know a few words in spanish and I only used "no" a couple times. the Port Captian, Migracion, Customs, Marina's, stores, gas stations,markets, -- english is spoken everywhere!!

There is a Cruiser's Net that operates on Channel 22 every morning at 8 am. If your a new arrival or if your departing the area, they want you to check in with them. They announce the local news, forcast the weather, and discuss many different topics. If there had been any thefts, vandelism or problems, it would have been discussed on this Net.

The Mexican people are Proud, hard working, good hearted and happy people. I would feel much better breaking down or getting stranded in any of the towns we visited down there vs. Santa Ana or Los Angeles
There are "bad apples" whereever you go, we just never saw any down in Mexico.

Scott

[Night Sailor]

It has been a few years since I've talked to any cruisers fresh back from that coast so I wondered if anything had changed. Your report is the same as friends say who currentlly develop condos on both sides of the peninsula. Thanks for your reply.

[Rolf]

Scott I've driven down to Cabo and the Vinzcano peninsula on surf/dive fish trip and always dreamed of trailering a boat down--. Any trouble with the federales or bandits?

Though I'm fairly fluent in Spanish,my experience include shakedowns and theft, along with genuinely friendly, generous locals in the small fishing villages. They even threw a fiesta for my buddies and I at a town called Punta Abreojos. Seems its always clear sailing after San Quintin, but from TJ to past Ensenada-- can't bear the thought of my Mac being hijacked! I agree,the water off Loreto south is incredibly blue and clear, but unbearably hot from July thru sept.
Rolf