Consolidated Trailer Repair or Replace ? Thread

[delevi]

Moderator note - thread renamed for discussion of "Do I buy new or fix my Macgregor trailer?" discussion... AUG 2013


After less than 3 years, my trailer is in horrible shape. More accurately, unsafe. I took it to a shop for $199 inspection. I already knew many of the problems, but here is what they advise it needs:

1. New axel (current one is bent) No idea how it happened but one of my tires lost all it's tread on the outer half only.
2. New wheels & tires
3. New rotors, hubs, lugs, bearings, brakes (everything rusted out) Actually broke a lug bolt.
4. New springs.
5. New jack. My current jack doesn't work at all.
6. All new lights and wiring(most of mine don't work any more)

All this to the tune of $2150 plus tax. I believe the price for the new aluminum trailer is $2200. Hmmmm what to do? The hard part is actually going down to So Cal to pick it up since my dealer will likely not make a run to just pick up an empty trailer, or if he does, would charge freight.

Is this a no-brainer decision or does it sound like this shop is trying to take me for a ride? Even a no-brainer is difficult on the brain when you have to shell out $2200 to replace a trailer which is less than 3-years old.

Leon

[kmclemore]

No brainer. Buy the new one. Lighter, stronger, and will also last longer. IMHO, the original traliers are only barely adequate for the job.

[pokerrick1]

What Kevin said

Rick

[kziadie]

The reports on the new style trailer seem to be favorable but I think both of those prices are inflated. I definitely would not throw 2 grand at an old M trailer in questionable condition, but before I spent the same money on the new one I would check the aftermarket first. The new M trailer still has 2 shortcomings that it has not addressed... it is still a single axle trailer and more importantly, it is still "half length" and does not give any support to the aft section of the hull.

Kelly

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

what Kelly said.

also, most or all of the parts can be ordered thru Champion Trailer Supply for $6-800.
if it was me, i'd consider doing some of the work myself.

however, it sounds like every component needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
if that's the case, spend the $2500 + gas to get it yourself.

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[Frank C]

That price is pretty "SF Bay" my opinion. Bob's right about the real cost of those parts. But I think I'd choose some better quality parts than Champion's ... can be had for the same $700.

Phone Bill to make sure what the fully assembled price is. Combine it with a day at Disneyland to ease the pain of those 15 hours on Interstate 5.

I'm pretty sure even the factory AL trailer would be lacking in some ways ... i.e. they don't use PT lumber for the bunks, and they don't insulate the steel bunk brackets off the AL frame. Call me to discuss if you want ...

[kmclemore]

Tony Houk (tonyhouk) bought a really nice aluminum trailer from a guy on eBay and was quite pleased. See full discssion here:

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7566

[Paul S]

After less than 3 years, my trailer is in horrible shape. More accurately, unsafe. I took it to a shop for $199 inspection. I already knew many of the problems, but here is what they advise it needs:

1. New axel (current one is bent) No idea how it happened but one of my tires lost all it's tread on the outer half only.
2. New wheels & tires
3. New rotors, hubs, lugs, bearings, brakes (everything rusted out) Actually broke a lug bolt.
4. New springs.
5. New jack. My current jack doesn't work at all.
6. All new lights and wiring(most of mine don't work any more)

All this to the tune of $2150 plus tax. I believe the price for the new aluminum trailer is $2200. Hmmmm what to do? The hard part is actually going down to So Cal to pick it up since my dealer will likely not make a run to just pick up an empty trailer, or if he does, would charge freight.

Is this a no-brainer decision or does it sound like this shop is trying to take me for a ride? Even a no-brainer is difficult on the brain when you have to shell out $2200 to replace a trailer which is less than 3-years old.

Leon

I just replaced all the brakes on our 04m trailer (search archives) and the parts were very cheap. It is not rocket science to replace the parts you mentioned..any decent mechanic should be able to do it. A local trailer shop should be able to hook you up with a new (different maybe) axle. $2200 is way too much for all that work.

The lugs are part of the hub/rotor (one piece) and they are very cheap considering. I think it was about $100 for the 2 rotors and pads total

I do not think you can buy the new trailer outright from macgregor, at least that is what I heard.

What happed that the trailer got so trashed?

Wiring is cheap and easy..brakes are cheap and easy. How hard is it to put leaf springs and an axle on? some bolts and maybe welding.. nothing extra ordinary. No clue why the high estimate. Strange


Paul

[Paul S]

I like the new mac trailer.. but not crazy about the fiberglass fenders.. I use the metal ones on our trailer all the time to step on (the little sides on the bottom) to put things on the boat or to clean or whatever. I don't like not being able to step on the little side steps..

[Boblee]

Sounds way over the top, surely if an aluminium trailer is only $2200 you could build a complete new steel trailer and maybe even galvanise it less than the repairs quoted.
I will be tossing most of my standard trailer next year as if something goes wrong it will be impossible to easily replace it here, so will make a tandem with std Aus parts and galvanise it. You can have mine but pick up only

[KayakDan]

My trailer is only two years old,but it requires constant attention chasing the rust. I hose down the trailer after every trip to wash out the salt. Even at only two years,I am constantly scraping and repainting the problem areas. Rust seems to build at a lot of the weld joints,which could quickly make the trailer unsafe.
I can't see investing serious money in these M trailers. I plan to keep mine alive as long as possible,then go to an aluminum tandem axle.

[Paul S]

When I have some time, I plan on throwing some POR15 at the trailer, especially the welds, as Dan mentioned, they seem to grow more rust there.

Overall I think the stock trailer is good.. if you keep it up!

I would sooo love to mask the brakes and Master cyl off (and anything else not media friendly) and have the trailer media blasted..then throw a couple coats of POR15 at the entire trailer.. but for now I may just tackle it in pieces.

[delevi]

I thought the repair estimate was on the outrageous side. That said, the guy told me the price already reflected a 22% discount on parts and labor... BS, BS, BS. As for doing any of this type of work myself... no way. That's way over my head. I'm not very handy so what may seem like easy stuff to some of you is major stuff for me. Even if I could do it, it would take me a lot more time than some of you handy guys and if you factor in the time taken off work (I'm self employed) my real cost will far exceed any savings in doing stuff myself. Frank, I'll be calling you for more of that sage advice.

Leon

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

I've actually been very surprised how well my '96 trailer has held up. It has very little rust even though all I do is rinse well after salt water. At some point I need to get the boat off it for a week so I can do some cosmetic touch up, but when I was under it with the pressure washer rinsing after our May trip it still looked good.

Lately I've been also using sling launches when possible to avoid dunking it at all. This has cut my salt water dunking in half. I also make sure my last trip each year is in fresh water so the trailer, boat, and motor get a good rinse.

My drum brakes were another story. Even with a flushing system installed they were a mess. I changed over to discs in 05 and they have been much better to maintain. I've had very few wiring issues. The factory encapsulated lights are actually very good. The only thing that would be better is LED's. Nine times out of ten you will find any boat trailer light problem is not the wire or the fixture, it is the ground connection.

Don't get too freaked out about rust. My previous boats's trailer, a 1970 Venture 21 (early Mac) had an amazingly rusty trailer. Even though it looked terrible, it was only surface rust and the metal underneath was still very sound. It still has the boat sitting on it today at my sisters house. After a few years of hating the look of the trailer I wire brushed it and spray painted over it all with rustoleum. This finish has held up quite well.

[Boblee]

Mine hasn't been in salt water yet but if rust starts appearing it will be as I posted earlier, be revamped and galvanised but it is on the list for next year anyway.
Galvanising is a pretty cheap solution here, is it dear there?
Everything I make tends to get galvanised and my dinghy trailers and camper have been in salt with very little washing, they are like new.
I personally hate preparing and painting it is easier (and cheaper) to just drop off at the galvanisers and pick up even though they are 100klm's away and no more touchups.
As for delevi's problem I would definitely be getting another price for repair and /or replacement.
This bloke is a total rip off merchant in any country.
Re the jack if it's the same as mine it will probably be only the spacer washer under the gear drive (top) allowing them to separate it will work ok under load but not when weight is off, just push up un wheel and turn handle until repaired.